Now that we are settled in Palmy, our next priority was to adopt a dog. And we found a perfect little New Zealand puppy. Meet Poppy – an 8-week-old Pomeranian x Cavalier King Charles Spaniel mix. She weighs just 1.1 kg (2.4 lbs) and was the smallest in the litter. We love an underdog. Adorably, she has one blue eye and one brown eye. And we love her black and grey coat.
Most of you know, we lost our beloved Ruthie in May of 2024. It took a very long time to get over the loss and we still miss her so very much. Her urn even made the journey to New Zealand. But life is just so much better with a pup!
Instead of adopting another dog in Mississippi, we decided to wait until we moved. It is very difficult and expensive to bring a dog to New Zealand. They have a strict quarantine protocol to try to control what comes into the island country.
Dog ownership is a bit different in New Zealand. We are required to register Poppy with the city council and renew the registration yearly. The law does not require that dogs be de-sexed, but it is highly encouraged and the council charges a higher registration fee for “entire dogs.” Also, microchips are mandatory.
Because she is new to us, we took Poppy to the local veterinarian to get a check-up and more information on vaccinations, de-wormers, etc. Surprise – there is no rabies in New Zealand, so no need for that vaccine. The vet checked Poppy out and answered all of our very-American questions. They were so kind and did not even charge for the visit. The vet advised to just “pop in” next week and they can weigh her and see if she needs a de-wormer tablet. Oh, and the tablets are free!
People here genuinely care about dogs. There are several dog parks in the city – even some with agility equipment to test her skills! Dogs are welcome in stores, restaurants, and are generally well-behaved. We can’t wait for Poppy to get a little older and start joining us on outings.
So for now, we get to enjoy snuggles and puppy breath. We are so happy to have a dog again. Dogs really do make everything better. And now one member of our family is a born Kiwi!
We arrived home from Spain on December 22 – just in time for Christmas. After celebrating the holidays with our families, we got down to business. Dusty worked a few shifts at the hospital. And we made our final preparations for the big move. What do you pack for a move to the other side of the world???
The Move – Logistics
We decided to move the simple way. We looked at shipping furniture, but it was very expensive and would take anywhere from 3-6 months to arrive. So we sold most of our stuff and decided to start fresh. We shipped five boxes – mostly clothes, shoes and camping gear. We used Send My Bag and they made it very easy! They provided the customs forms we needed and a when everything was packed and inventoried, they picked the boxes up. Incredibly, they arrived in about 10 days! It was way easier than expected. Now I wish I would have shipped more clothes!
A Surprise – Hotty Toddy!
We were scheduled to leave New Orleans on Friday, January 9. One thing we did not plan – Ole Miss football made a historic run and was set to play in the semifinal playoff game on January 8. In Phoenix, Arizona. So, YOLO, we bought tickets to the game and flights. This may be a once in a lifetime opportunity. And it was a special experience – the city was full of Ole Miss fans including family and friends. The game was incredible, even though Ole Miss came up just short. No regrets!
The (Many) Flights
The down side of traveling to the bowl game – we added another leg of travel to our already long trek to New Zealand. We left Phoenix around 7 AM and arrived to New Orleans, via Las Vegas, around 1:00 pm. Luckily, Lauren’s Mom and Dad met us at the airport with our New Zealand luggage. This was a big chore – we were checking three bags each! Luckily all of our flights were on time and the extra travel was smooth. We had enough time to check all of those bags and spend some time together in the airport. Finally, at 5:30 pm we were on our way to New Zealand!
Air New Zealand is our airline of choice. They have regular non-stop flights from Houston to Auckland, but the flight is a whopping 14 hours! Through the years, we have become good fliers and we are both able to sleep on the long haul flights. The key is an eye mask, neck pillow and headphones. This allows you to block out the noise, light and commotion and get decent rest. It’s also very glamorous (lol)!
We slept about 6 hours on the plane – so it works!
We arrived in Auckland on Sunday, January 11 and were greeted by a lovely sunrise. Welcome to New Zealand!
From Auckland, we had to gather all of those checked bags and make our way through customs. After we breezed through, we checked our bags back in and switched to the domestic terminal to wait for our final flight to Palmerston North. When we arrived to the gate we were very confused – there was no security at all. You show your boarding pass and walk right onto the tarmac and onto the plane!
When we arrived to Palmy it was very windy, especially in the small propeller plane. As we began to land, the pilot touched the plane down and then went right back up! He announced that it was a little too windy and we would circle Palmy and try again! Luckily, after about 10 minutes we were able to land. From there we picked up our rental car and headed to our Airbnb. First stop – shower – after traveling for about 30 hours!
View from our Airbnb
Palmy
Now, to explore. Although we traveled to New Zealand twice before, we had never visited Palmy. We were pleasantly surprised! It’s a nice sized town (for us) with lots of local stores and restaurants. Plus, the town has beautiful green spaces, trees and flowers.
Palmy is surrounded by beautiful rolling hills and New Zealand’s biggest wind farm! Best of all, even though it is summer, the high temperatures have been in the mid-70’s!
Settling In
Once we caught our breath and adjusted to the time change (+19 hours!), it was time to get to work. First up – setting up a bank account, new phone numbers, buying a car, and finding a rental house. Dusty set us up with several home viewings on Monday (our first full day). Before we arrived, we were told that the rental market can be competitive and that it might take a little time to find a house. We got so lucky – we really liked the first house we visited. We applied and were accepted by the landlord on Wednesday, and moved in on Friday – less than a week from our arrival!
Our new house and carView from our front yard – hills and windmills in the distance!
We then set to work furnishing the house. We shopped for new mattresses, bedding and cookware at the local Palmy stores. All of the people we met are happy to help and very interested in how we ended up here. An example – we stopped by a home improvement store to buy a tape measure. When the staff heard what we needed, they asked if we would simply like to borrow one! There seems to be a real sense of community and kindness here.
New Zealand has a big resale market and we got most of our big stuff – couch, tv, washer/dryer, dining room, bedroom suits – secondhand. Shopping for secondhand items brought us to some of the nearby towns and helped us explore the area a little more. It is a joy to drive around rural New Zealand and take in the views of the lush green fields, mountains, cows and of course sheep! We also had a chance to check out nearby Foxton Beach!
We have been in New Zealand for almost three weeks and things have been “easy as.” For the first time in months, it is time to get back into a regular routine. Dusty started work at the hospital this week. Lauren is enrolled as a student at Victoria University of Wellington to meet requirements to practice law in New Zealand. Classes begin in February!
We are so excited to finally be here – this has been our dream for eight years. We cannot wait to share the funny stories, cultural differences, and the adventure that comes with living as an expat. Sweet as!
And finally, for our last stop on this epic trip – Spain! Spain is a large country with so much to see. So we focused on the big sites in the northern part of the country – Santiago de Compostela, Segovia, Madrid, Zaragoza and Barcelona. We could have stayed in Spain for months and still not seen everything. This was a truly beautiful way to end our trip.
Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela is the capital of the Galicia region. But it is most famous as the destination for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago aka Way of St. James. We did not have time to walk the camino (hopefully in the future), but we did enjoy visiting the city. The historic old town centers around the magnificent Cathedral , which said to house the remains of the apostle St. James.
CathedralOverlook of Santiago and the Cathedral
We learned a lot more about the history of St. James and his importance to the people of Spain. He is the patron saint of Spain and Galicia. We were familiar with James the apostle. But in Spain, he has three identities. He is well known as St. James the Pilgrim (hence the camino) because tradition says he traveled to Spain to preach the gospel. St. James the Pilgrim is often depicted wearing a wide-brimmed hat, scallop shell, a cloak, staff and a book. But the more interesting legend, is St. James the Moor-Slayer. Legend says that St. James miraculously appeared to help the Spanish Christians in a medieval battle and lead them to victory over the Moors. The statutes depicting St. James as the Moor-Slayer were our favorite.
Galicia in the winter means rain, and rain it did. For this spot, we booked a very nice Airbnb in the countryside. It had a great living room, kitchen, big bedrooms, and a hot tub! This turned out to be perfect planning – due to the weather we spent a lot of time inside. It was also time for a rest after so much travel.
Segovia
Next stop Segovia, a city with thousands of years of history and beautiful sites to visit. When we arrived, the city was beautifully decorated for Christmas, adding even more to its charm.
Segovia is jammed full of beautiful buildings and unique architecture. First, the stunning Roman aqueducts dating back from the 1st or 2nd century. Second, the Segovia Cathedral, the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. Third, the Alcazar, a stunning royal palace built in the 12th century. The Alcazar is rumored to have inspired Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World and the Wicked Queen’s castle in Snow White. We visited inside, and then took a walk to view it from below. Stunning!
CathedralCathedralRoman AqueductAlcazarAlcazar
We ate some really good food in Segovia. Everyone has heard of tapas, Spanish ham, and paella. But Segovia had its own cuisine, which was hearty and rustic, typical for this region. But the must-try dish is cochinillo asado or roasted suckling pig. We put our guilt aside and tried it. Pretty good!
Segovia had a lot of interesting architecture. The buildings looked a little bit different depending on the neighborhood. We really loved the Mudรฉjar art – Islamic decorative elements added to Iberian Christian buildings. The art represents the peaceful co-existence of Muslims and Christians in Spain during the medieval ages. However, when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella came to power and the 15th century they expelled all of the Muslims and Jewish people unless they agreed to convert. Mudรฉjar can be seen on the Alcazar and throughout Segovia.
Juan Bravo Statue – Mudรฉjar on the building in the foreground
Madrid
From small Segovia, to bustling Madrid! We typically prefer smaller cities, but Madrid was an exception. This was one of our favorite visits of the entire trip. We loved wandering the streets. The architecture, the buildings, and the Christmas lights were incredible.
Real Madrid CF
We had no plans to attend a soccer match in Madrid. But … Manchester City was in town for a big Champion’s League match. So we had to go! I’m so glad we did. It was an incredible atmosphere and we saw some of the best players in the world do their thing. The next day we went on a stadium tour of the Bernabeu. This tour included the museum, locker rooms, and players sidelines. It was an excellent tour, and gave us a perspective of the stadium we did not get by attending a match. Highly recommend!
Real Madrid v. Manchester CityDressing RoomMichael Owen’s Ballon d’OrSitting where Mbappe sat the night before (maybe)
Madrid – Food and Wine
As with every city we visited, we tried the local food and wine. We went on a food tour and had the most amazing croquetas filled with ham and bechamel sauce, vermouth, patatas bravas, and so many tapas! But the real star is the Iberican ham (Jamรณn Ibรฉrico) which is cured pork leg. But this is not your average prosciutto. This ham comes from native black Iberican pigs which roam free in the oak forests and only eat acorns. We were also told they receive massages and listen to classical music before being slaughtered – who knows if that is true. But they were delicious and on display everywhere in their unique way.
Plus, we took a cooking class – this time making paella and sangria! In the class, we learned how to make the iconic Spanish dish and how to differentiate between an authentic and tourist paella. We look forward to trying at home! We also went on a wine tour of the wineries in the Madrid D.O. It was a nice ride in the countryside and we learned more about the Spanish wine. In particular we loved the Garnacha reds.
Colmenar de Oreja
We ended our visit with a Flamenco dance show in a beautiful theater in operation since 1911. The band and singers were the perfect accompaniment. We barely scratched the surface and cannot wait to go back to Madrid.
Flamenco Tradition says that if you touch the bears butt you will return to Madrid. Which I did!
Zaragoza
Zaragoza is the capital of the Aragon region and a lovely town on the Ebro River. We arrived and checked into our Airbnb and discovered our breathtaking view of the old town.
Zaragoza is a historical city with thousands of years of history. The city was founded by the Romans in the 1st century B.C. and called Caesaraugusta. There are Roman ruins found throughout the old town, but the best preserved is the theatre. It was only discovered when the area was under construction. It has since been excavated and turned into a museum.
Roman Theatre
The real showpiece is the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar. Its facade dominates the skylines and is featured in every picture of Zaragoza. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to St. James at Caesaraugusta, while he was preaching the Gospel in Hispania. She appeared upon a pillar and asked that he build a church in her honor. James complied and constructed a small chapel which is said to be the first church built for the Virgin. James returned to Jerusalem, was executed and his body was returned to Spain (Santiago) for burial. But the pillar upon which Mary appeared was kept by the people and is said to be preserved within the present Basilica. People travel to the Basilica to touch and even kiss the pillar. The Basilica was beautifully decorated inside and out and a very important site for Catholics.
We went on a food tour in Zaragoza to try the local food and wine. We told the guide that we were adventurous and would try anything. So she fixed us up with herring and sardine specialties! We also tried mushrooms, croquetas, and great local wine. Finally, we ended our visit by going on a wine tour of the Cariรฑena region. On top of tasting delicious wine, we got to meet wonderful small wine producers and explore the countryside outside of the city.
Herring with red peppers and sardines with chocolate!Almonacid de la Sierra
Barcelona
Our last stop! Over the past few years, Barcelona has becoming the most visited city in the world. It’s a beautiful city full of interesting architecture, small winding streets, great restaurants, culture and lovely people. We were fortunate to visit in December when there were less people and fantastic Christmas decorations.
Hospital Sant Pau
One thing to know about Barcelona, it is part of Catalonia, but not necessarily Spain. The people consider themselves to be Catalan. They primarily speak Catalan and fly the Catalan flag. Spain has several autonomous communities (Galicia, Aragon, etc.). But the Catalan really mean it. Along with the Catalan flag, many people fly the Catalan independence flag. In 2017, the Catalans held an independence referendum vote which passed by 92%. The vote was declared unconstitutional by the Constitutional Court of Spain. So Catalonia is still a part of Spain. But there is a strong independence movement brewing.
Catalan flag flying Montjuรฏc CastleBuilding opposite city hall adorned with Catalan independence flags
It’s All About Gaudรญย
Antoni Gaudรญย was a Catalan architect and designer who became part of the modernist movement in the late 1800’s. His work incorporated nature and religion and he worked with ceramics, stained glass, wrought iron, and carpentry. His buildings are unmistakable and are found throughout Barcelona.
Casa Mila (La Pedrera)Casa Batllรณ
But the biggest and most popular is the Sagrada Familia. The construction began in 1882 and is still ongoing today! Gaudi planned the cathedral and its very unique architecture and worked on it until his death in 1926. Construction progressed through the 20th century, slowed by the Spanish Civil War and political turbulence. It is forecast to be completed in 2026 (we will see). When completed, its central tower will stand at 172 meters, making it the tallest church in the world. The Sagrada Familia is unlike any other church. It’s exterior and interior are Gaudi’s masterpiece, with detail and design evoking nature in his modernist style. We have visited so many churches and cathedrals on our travels. But this one is the most unique by far.
Sagrada Familia in the distance – it dominates the cityscape
Montjuic
We took a funicular up to Montjuรฏc (“Jewish Mountain” in medieval Catalan) a large hill overlooking Barcelona. At the top, we visited Montjuรฏcย Castle, built in the 1600’s due to its strategic view of the city and the sea. We walked down the hill and visited the arena and memorial to the 1992 Olympic Games. We also admired the Palau Nacional, home to the National Art Museum of Catalonia.
Montserrat
We took a day trip to visit the stunning Montserrat. Montserrat meaning “Serrated Mountain” is famous for its jagged peaks and beautiful rock formations. We took the train up to the site of the Benedictine monastery which offered dramatic views of the mountains and valley. When we arrived early in the morning, fog blanketed the valley. When it lifted we had lovely views. We went down into the valley and visited Oller del Mas winery. We were treated to a tasty lunch in their lodge and a wine tasting- all with the peaks in the background.
Penedes
On our last day in Spain, we visited the villages of Lavern and Subirats in the Penedes wine region. We rented e-bikes, rode through the vineyards and visited one winery. Since it was December 22, everything was quiet and shutting down for the holidays. But it was nice to see an area outside of the city and visit and taste the local wine.
Montserrat in the background
The End
We spent one last night in Barcelona before starting the journey home. We ate some wonderful food in Barcelona. But our favorite meal was a ribeye for two, complete with our own tableside grill. We were treated to a lovely sunset on our final night. A subtle cosmic goodbye to a wonderful vacation.
View from our hotel balcony
This marks the end of our 100 day second honeymoon. It exceeded our wildest expectations. It was so freeing to travel without the worry of work or what we were missing at home. We are so fortunate to have an opportunity to visit so many incredible places. And to spend so much time together.
Thank you for reading our posts. We are so happy to share our adventures with you. Next up, the big one, we are moving to New Zealand!
Next up, Portugal! We planned visits to Portugal’s two biggest cities – the capital Lisbon and second city Porto.
Lisbon
Our first stop was lovely Lisbon, known for its cobblestone streets, historic charms, and the very steep hills! We booked an Air BnB in the lively Cais do Sodrรฉ neighborhood, just off the famous Pink Street. The bars and clubs literally kept going until the early morning hours.
We did lots of fun things in Lisbon. We went on a food tour and got our first taste of the cuisine – salted cod, seafood rice, bifana (pork sandwiches), sardines (yes sardines!), and all the fresh seafood you can imagine! Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur served in a chocolate cup, was also a must try. But the most famous are the pastรฉis de nata – egg custard tarts with crispy flaky crusts. So much new food to try and definitely a different flavor from France!
Salted Cod or Bacalhau Dusty Eating a SardineTinned Sardines
Did I mention that Lisbon is hilly? So to explore the city we booked a tuk tuk tour to save our legs. We had the sweetest guide who stopped to show us cool spots and wonderful lookouts over the city.
The Christmas season began while we were in Lisbon. The mayor hosted a huge ceremony to turn on the Christmas lights around the city. We happened to be eating dinner at a rooftop restaurant and were treated to a surprise firework show (part of the Christmas celebration). The lights decorated many of the streets in the old town. It was really beautiful.
Surprise Fireworks
If you have read our previous posts, you know we tried the local wine. Portugal is famous for port wine. We tried a lot of it and really enjoyed it. At home, we often had port with dessert. But we learned so much more about the different types of port and the serious aging process. We scheduled a port wine tasting with From the Vine. The wine was so good, we booked a second tasting of the whites and reds. Portugal has a huge wine scene, including the Vinho Verde or green wine. Vinho verde is crisp, fresh and slightly fizzy white wine from a region in northern Portugal. And of course, the wine from the Douro Valley is amazing (more on that later).
Sintra & Cascais
We took a day trip from Lisbon to visit the iconic Pena Palace in Sintra. The Pena Palace is a UNESCO world heritage site with a wall walk that offers great views of the countryside. The architecture is Romantic style, with colorful facades, beautiful tile work and Moorish touches. The interior was restored to how it would have appeared when the Portuguese royals fled to Brazil in 1910. Definitely worth the trip.
We also visited the beach town of Cascais, which previously served as the summer spot for royalty. Cascais still has famous King’s and Queen’s beaches. We ate a delicious lunch in the village and went for a stroll on the beach and made sure to put our feet in the cool water.
Queen’s BeachSeafood pasta with fresh mussels, squid, and prawns
Cape Roca
As part of our visit to Sintra, we stopped by Cape Roca – the westernmost point of continental Europe. What a stunning place! There is a monument and lighthouse to mark the spot. But we were not prepared for the natural beauty. We had a beautiful view of the cliffs, blue water, and rolling green countryside.
Porto
Our last stop in Portugal – Porto. We really loved this city – a historic old town built up the steep hills rising from the Douro River. We had a great Airbnb with a view of the river overlooking the sister city of Gaia. Porto was smaller than Lisbon and had a different, more authentic feel.
Ribiera DistrictView of Porto from GaiaSunset from our Airbnb
The city had so much to offer. We loved walking this city and admiring the architecture which features beautiful tiles cover the exterior and interior of buildings. One of the most popular spots, Livaria Lello – called the most beautiful bookstore in the world! A city that features books is our kind of place!
Livaria Lello Lady Justice outside a dictator-era courthouse – notable for no scales or blindfold, but with a sword
Port Wine
Of course Porto is famous for its port wine. Port is a fortified wine – meaning that the fermentation process is stopped by the addition of a spirit like aguardente which results in sweet wine with high alcohol content. This process was created by British merchants to keep the wine from spoiling during the trip to England. The grapes come from the nearby Douro Valley but the wine is produced and stored in the famous cellars or caves in Porto/Gaia. We toured the cellars at Taylor and Sandeman and tasted their varieties, including wine that had been aged for 30 or 40 years. It was really fun and we learned so much.
Sandeman CellarTaylor’s Tasting
Porto also has a World of Wine which features seven museums, a wine school, shops and restaurants. We visited The Wine Experience, Planet Cork, and The Chocolate Story – all very good museums. Our favorite exhibit showcased clever art work depicting the different grape varieties. Our favorite was Sauvignon Blanc featuring New Zealand!
Douro Valley
Finally, we took a wine tour to the dramatic Douro Valley, the world’s oldest demarcated wine region. Named for the river, the region features terraced vineyards which makes for breathtaking scenery. Grapes have been grown on these hillsides for over 2,000 years. This is the birthplace of Port but also features great red and white wine.
Scott the vineyard dog, who loves to eat grapes during harvest
That ends our visit to Portugal. We would love to go back one day and explore some of the smaller cities and towns and of course the Algarve when it’s warmer.
Thank you for reading! Next post our last country to visit, Spain!
We left beautiful Beaune by train and headed south to Nice, the largest city in the French Riviera. Back to pebbly beaches, blue water, and sunsets!
Per usual, we started our visit with a food tour. Niรงoise cuisine is a mix of French and Italian, heavy on seafood and completely different from other French regions. We ate a few local staples like socca (a thin chickpea flour pancake), pan bagnat (sandwich with olive oil soaked bread, fresh seafood, tomatoes and olives), and pissaladiรจre (pizza-like tart with onions, anchovies and olives). But as we learned, Swiss chard is the staple of the cuisine – people from Nice are nicknamed “caga blea” or “chard eaters”! We even had a tourte de blette sucrรฉe” – a chard dessert! Fair to say, not quite what we expected but we appreciated the unique dishes! Unfortunately, we did not take many pictures of the food, but that’s not because it wasn’t delicious.
Nice was historically an Italian city and was only ceded to France in 1860. The Old Town looks very Italian with its narrow streets and colorful buildings. The main square is named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian general born in Nice that contributed to the unification of Italy. This history gives Nice a totally different feel than the other parts of France we visited.
Next up – the wine! Although well-known as being part of the Cote d’Azur, it is also a part of Provence! We went on a wine tour through some of the smaller wineries and vineyards in Provence. People typically associate with Provence with rosรฉ but there is so much more quality wine in the area. But we also drank truly exceptional rosรฉ – light and fresh, not full of sugar or red and white wine mixed together. The French would never!
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Nice is surrounded by beautiful coastal towns like Cannes, Antibes, and Eze (the list goes on and on) that are easily accessible by bus or train. We had plans to visit several, but the weather did not cooperate. Improbably, we were woken up by the sound of hail on the roof of our apartment one morning! So we only got to visit one nearby town, but it was arguably the best one – Saint-Jean-Cap Ferrat.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is located on a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean and ends at Cap Ferrat. The peninsula features a walking path that covers the entire peninsula’s rocky coastline. We almost made it to Cap Ferrat when the police closed the path due to rough seas. We had definitely noticed the big waves and even got splashed a few times!
The town is also ranked as the second most expensive residential location in the world. Since the coastal pathway was closed, we walked to the interior and marveled at the beautiful homes and gardens. This also gave us a chance to explore the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, built between 1907 and 1912 by Baroness Bรฉatrice de Rothschild. The villa is now a museum and the home and gardens are impeccably maintained. Plus the villa has a stunning view of the Mediterranean and coastline. We did not plan to visit the villa but are so glad we did.
Villa Ephrussi de RothschildView from the Villa
Bordeaux
We left the Coast and headed inland to our last stop in France – Bordeaux. The city is beautiful, the restaurants are delicious and of course, the wine is world class. Bordeaux felt like a mini-Paris and, due to the newish high speed train, is populated by a lot of former-Parisians. We had a great time wandering the city.
Garonne RiverPlace de la BourseBeautiful fountain in memory of the local revolutionaries- turned off and drained for winter
The most fascinating thing – the city gates. Like a ton of European cities, Bordeaux was originally surrounded by defensive walls. The walls are gone, but a few of the gates were preserved. And while accurate, “gate” does not describe the incredible buildings that remain from the 15th century.
Porte Cailhau
Bordeaux has a signature pastry, canelรฉs, which are a rum and vanilla flavored cakes with a soft custard center and caramelized crust. If you knew where to buy them, they were delicious! Bordeaux is only about 40 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. So along with traditional French cuisine, they also had excellent fresh seafood. Our favorite was the steamed mussels which pair perfectly with crisp white wine!
The Wine
Finally, Bordeaux is world-famous for their red wine. And we drank plenty! One of the main attractions is La Cite de Vin – an all encompassing wine museum with tastings on the rooftop. We spent a whole afternoon there and still missed some of the exhibitions. It is a cannot miss if you’re ever in Bordeaux.
La Cite du Vin
We visited the famous Mรฉdoc wine region, which is located just outside Bordeaux. We saw beautiful fields of vineyards, chateaus, and medieval villages. In particular, we loved Saint Emilion and Margaux. We stopped at a few of the chateaus and sampled the delicious local wine. One of our favorite things to do on vacation!
St. EmilionChateau Margaux
This brings on time in France to a close. Next post Portugal!
Our next stop – 3.5 glorious weeks in France. We visited Paris, Beaune (Burgundy region), Nice and Bordeaux. As you might expect, there this is too much for one post. So Part Une will cover Paris and Beaune. Enjoy!
Paris
Where to start?! Paris is pure magic – the history, fashion, food, and of course romance. We had a wonderful time simply wandering the streets, taking in views of the Siene, the architecture, the art, the culture. There is so much to do and see,. In our six days we only scratched the surface.
Les InvalidesThe SeineNotre DameArc de Triomphe
The Eiffel Tower
Although initially hated by the French, to us Paris is all about the Eiffel Tower. We used our Chase points to book a fancy hotel with a view of the Eiffel Tower. It was fabulous and cost us nothing! We enjoyed different viewpoints, from above and below, of the Eiffel Tower from all over the city.
View from our hotel roomRooftop Bar
The Food
Paris, for good reason, boasts some of the best food in the world. We had some of the most delicious meals of our lives at random cafes and restaurants. We also enjoyed a food tour in the Montmartre neighborhood that ended with a great overlook of the city. In an effort to learn the secrets, we took a cooking class and learned how to make croissants and pain au chocolat the French way (hint – lots of butter). The pastries turned out delicious in class. We will see if we can replicate once we get home!
Lunch at a sidewalk cafeEscargotOur homemade pastries!Montmartre
The Culture
You cannot visit Paris without art. We visited the Musee d’Orsay which houses the largest collection of impressionist works. In particular, we were excited to see paintings by Claude Monet, Edward Degas and of course Vincent van Gogh. The museum itself was stunning, plus the world class paintings and sculptures. We really enjoyed our visit. We also took a tour of the Palais Garnier – Paris’s opera house and one of the most ornate buildings we have ever seen. Unfortunately there were no performances, opera or ballet, scheduled during our visit. That is definitely on our list for next time.
Musee d’OrsayStarry Night over the Rhone – Van GoghPalais Garnier
Mont Saint-Michel
We took a day trip to the Normandy region to visit Mont Saint-Michel. This stunning island features a medieval abbey. But what makes this place unique are the tides. When the tide goes out, the island is accessible by foot. But when the tide is in, it is surrounded by water. The tides vary greatly – up to 45 feet between high and low tide! The abbey was constructed in the 8th century after (as the myth goes) Archangel Michael appeared and directed a monk to build a church on the island. The island later became a pilgrimage site for medieval Christians. However, the trek could be dangerous depending on the tides. We walked to the island across a wooden boardwalk but were warned to steer clear of the quicksand surrounding the area. It was an interesting place to see and worthy of a day trip.
Joan of Arc Statue
Beaune
Now for the opposite of sprawling Paris – charming Beaune. Beaune is famous worldwide as the capital of Burgundy wines. Beaune is a medieval city with intact walls, ramparts and historical buildings in the old town. The Hospices de Beaune is the showpiece – a perfectly preserved 15th century hospital for the poor.
Hospices de BeauneHospices de Beaune – great hall where patients were treatedEglise St. Nicolas
Veloroute La Voie des Vignes
But, this is Burgundy and we were there for the wine! Beaune is surrounded by vineyards and some of the most famous wine villages in the world. Beaune connects with the Voie des Vignes – a bicycle path that winds its way through the vineyards and villages from Santenay to Dijon. We rented e-bikes and spent our days riding through the hills, vineyards and to several villages.
Voie des Vignes
And Oh the Chรขteaux
After biking through the vineyards, the highlight was stopping at chรขteaux for wine tastings. We learned so much about Burgundy wines and the particularities of the Cรดte de Nuits and Cรดte de Beaune. We tasted wines that we could trace to the specific plot of land from which the grapes were harvested. You could spend a lifetime learning the nuances of Burgundy wine. We learned enough to know we were in love.
Chรขteau PommardChรขteau Savigny le BeauneChรขteau de Corte AndreChรขteau de la Cree
I hope you enjoyed the highlights of part une. Next post – Nice and Bordeaux! We truly love France. But for now, au revoir!
Slovenia is about the size of New Jersey and has a population of just 2 million people. But wow, it has everything – mountains, lakes, gorges, beaches, cities, food and wine! This was one of our most surprising visits. The locals say that it’s shaped like a chicken and describe the different areas accordingly “chicken head” or “chicken butt.”
With a little imagination, you can see the chicken
Bled
First stop, Bled. This cute alpine town is famous for Lake Bled and Bled Castle . Bled is a popular tourist destination, especially in the summer. We were lucky to visit in the fall when there were less crowds. Plus we were treated with autumn leaves. It was incredible.
Lake Bled and Bled IslandBled Castle
First, we walked around the footpath that winds around the lake, giving different vantage points. We wandered the streets of the alpine village, sampling food at the cute cafes and restaurants along the way. The food had a German/Austrian feel – lots of meat, sausage and potatoes. Which suited us just fine! We sampled the world famous Bled cake. We really loved our stay in Bled and wish we would have had a few more days to explore the Alpine portion of Slovenia. Next time!
Vintgar Gorge
Next, we took a short drive north of Bled and visited the Vintgar Gorge (Soteska Vintgar) – a 1.6 km canyon featuring blue/green water, sheer limestone cliffs and beautiful autumn foliage. For a small entry fee, we were able to walk along the boardwalk path that winds its way through the canyon and waterfalls. After leaving the gorge itself, we were treated to a lovely walk through the Slovene countryside. Vintgar Gorge is a cannot miss for anyone visiting Bled.
Piran
Next we visited Piran – a coastal village on the Adriatic Sea. Slovenia only has about 30 miles of coastline, but they make the most of it. Piran was ruled by the Venetians for approximately 500 years and the Venetian influence is obvious on the architecture and culture of the village. The city is officially bilingual (Slovene and Italian). We found a great Airbnb right on the main square with a balcony overlooking the sea and the sunsets!
Overlooking Tartini SquareTartini Square
We planned a lot of fun activities in Piran. First, we went for a truffle hunt! Truffles are found in this part of Slovenia and are a huge part of the local cuisine. So we went right to the source. We met locals in the nearby town of Gaลพon and went into the forest with our guide, the hunter and his dog. We always thought truffles were hunted with pigs. Pigs are superior at finding the truffles, but they cannot help but eat them. Dogs are way more trainable. Our truffle dog was a mix of a golden retriever and lab and was so cute! And the best part, our guide took us back to her home where we prepared truffle pasta with fresh local ingredients. Delicious!
Dusty is an excellent student
Next, we went on an e-bike tour of the countryside. It was great to get out into the green hills, vineyards, salt pans, and enjoy great views. We have ridden e-bikes a few times on this vacation, and really love them.
Piran is the peninsula in the background of the photo
Finally, we rented Vespas from a guide and drove through the inland countryside. We loved this tour because riding Vespas is fun and it took us to an area tourists rarely see. The highlight came when we visited Krkavฤe, a quaint village dating back to the 9th century. Only about 250 people still live there, and we were the only outsiders in the village.The people were friendly and were welcomed by the church’s caregiver with local fruits and a bouquet of wildflowers.
Postojna Caves
After leaving Piran, we stopped by the breathtaking Potojna Caves – a 15 mile long cave system carved by the Pivka River over millions of years. The visit to the cave begins and ends with a train ride through the tunnels and has a lengthy walking tour in the middle. The caves were breathtaking. The stalagmite and stalactites were huge and unlike any we had ever seen. This is one of Slovenia’s top tourist attractions for a reason. We also visited the nearby Predjama Castle – a medieval castle somehow carved directly into the cliffs. This was a short stop on our way to Ljubljana, but one we will never forget.
Ljubljana
Our final stop – the capital and Slovenia’s largest city. We loved Ljubljana – it was so clean, walkable, relaxed, and the fall foliage made the city plain beautiful. The Ljubljanica river runs through the city and is crisscrossed with beautiful bridges. Plus a castle overlooks the city and the symbol is a dragon. Ljubljana is straight out of a fairytale! Everyone we met was so kind and welcoming. They were genuinely excited to tell us more about their country and give us recommendations on what to do next.
Ljubljanica RiverLjubljana CastleDragon Bridge
After arriving in Ljubljana, our first activity was a home cooking class with the mother-son team of Alenka and Luka. This was one of the most special things we did in Slovenia. They welcomed us into their family home with a lunch of homemade goulash and polenta. We spent hours in their home, learning to make ล truklji – rolled dough stuffed with cottage cheese and topped with cinnamon. The food and wine were delicious. But the highlight was spending time with Alenka and Luka and getting a peek into what it is like to live and work in Slovenia. While the struklji was cooking, Alenka took us for a walk in their neighborhood and stopped to talk to neighbors along the way. I cannot recommend this experience enough! Next time we are in Slovenia, our first call is to Alenka!
On a walk in Alenka and Luka’s neighborhood
We also did a food tour and made fast friends with our local guide Jasmina. We ate delicious food, drank good wine, and finished with a rooftop bar at sunset. She even helped us plan the rest of our trip to Slovenia – recommending we visit the chicken neck! If you’re in Ljubljana, book this food tour!
We love a rooftop
Road Trip to the Chicken Neck
We rented a car in Slovenia so we could explore the rural parts of the country a little better. On our final day in Slovenia, we took Jasmina’s advice and visited the chicken neck – the cities of Maribor, Ptuj, and the vineyards of Jeruzalem. It was easy to get around on Slovenia’s well maintained roads. And we are so glad we visited these out of the way places. They were incredibly beautiful.
World’s Oldest Noble Grapevine – Planted Between 1572 and 1622MariborPtujPtujJeruzalemJeruzalem
Our visit to Slovenia well exceeded our expectations. We cannot wait to go back and explore more! But for now, it’s on to France
Next stop, England, for a little detour before we continue on (or back) to Slovenia. But there is a good reason for this stop. Lauren has been obsessed with Liverpool Football Club since high school. Her college dorm featured a poster of Michael Owen (former Liverpool and England great and a cutie). So, we added a bucket list stop onto our trip of a lifetime!
London
But first, London! We only spent a few days in London on our way to Liverpool. We hit the big spots on the first day – Buckingham Palace for a changing of the guard, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, Parliament, and Trafalgar Square to name a few. No explanation necessary for these world famous spots. It is London so it was rainy. But it did not damper our spirits.
Buckingham PalaceChanging of the GuardAustralia Gate at Buckingham PalaceChanging of the GuardTrafalgar Square
Theater in the West End
After seeing the traditional stops, we decided to focus the rest of our visit on drama. We caught two shows in the West End. The first was Harry Potter and the Cursed Child – an epic play presented in two full length parts. The play started in the afternoon and took a break for dinner to come back for the second. The production and sets created were incredible. Somehow they created “dementors” that flew all around the theater. The play has been in rotation in the West End for years. But unbeknownst to us, we saw the opening night of a new cast. So there was a special finale and some of the actors addressed the audience to talk about how special this opening night was. We felt so lucky to catch this show.
We also saw Six – a play featuring Henry VIII’s “Six” wives. It was a really fun, poppy, musical. The wives told their stories with humor, music and beautiful costumes. It was totally different from Harry Potter. We feel like we got a great theater experience.
The Old Bailey
We also saw live theater – part of a trial at the historic Old Bailey. The Central Criminal Court of England and Wales is held in a historic courthouse known as the Old Bailey. The Court is open to the public, but subject to strict security. We checked our phones and cameras into a secure storage and got in the queue for the public gallery.
Once inside, we asked the security guards if any proceedings were in session. After a few attempts, we came to a courtroom that was in the middle of a rape trial. Jackpot! We were warned to remain completely quiet and were ushered into balcony seating above the courtroom. The scene was straight out of a British TV drama – barristers in wigs and robes, the Judge (“My Lady” in the Old Bailey) in her red robes and wig.
As we entered, the barristers were arguing an evidentiary motion. The terminology was a little bit different, but the principles involving hearsay and rape shield rules of evidence were pretty similar. Just like in the US, the Judge was pretty sharp with the defense lawyer ๐ From there, we saw part of the defense barrister’s cross-examination. The styles were different (much more polite) but the strategy was the same. It was an enthralling 3 hours. Afterwards, we were able to access the docket to see that the trial proceeded for several more days, but there was nothing declaring the verdict. I like to think this means it was a Not Guilty! Usually there’s no press release for a defense verdict ๐
Liverpool
Next stop, Liverpool! Of course we were here to see the match. But we took some time to walk around the city and learn more about its history. Everyone knows about Liverpool because of the Beatles. There is a rich musical history, which is owed in part to the Mississippi Blues. No matter where we go, there is always a connection to home.
The Cavern Club – known as the birthplace of the Beatles
Like Mississippi, Liverpool also has a difficult past. The Port of Liverpool rose to prominence due to the slave trade and the importation of cotton from the American south. Because cotton was king, when the Civil War broke out, Liverpool took the side of the confederacy supplying money and ships. We learned that the last confederate surrender occurred in Liverpool in November 1865, when the confederate warship Shenandoah surrendered in Liverpool. As the story goes, those onboard the Shenandoah thought it would be better to surrender in Liverpool rather than face the music in the US. And the sailors were allowed to stay. The US later demanded compensation from England for Liverpool’s supplying ships and allowing the confederates to use their ports. As a result, the British government paid the US ยฃ3,000,000 in compensation! We were not aware of this bit of Civil War history.
Queen Victoria Monument
Now, Liverpool is a vibrant city with a fun restaurant and night life scene. We ate good food, caught live music and drank good beer during our visit. Liverpool also has a vibrant film industry. It is “Gotham City” in Batman. Other notable productions filmed in Liverpool include Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Peaky Blinders, Captain America, Florence Foster Jenkins, and many more.
Homeless Jesus statue – depicting Jesus as a homeless person sleeping on a bench
You’ll Never Walk Alone
Now, the main event. Liverpool v. Manchester United at Anfield (Liverpool’s stadium). When I started watching English Premier League soccer in high school, Manchester United was the biggest club around. They had players like David Beckham, Wayne Rooney, Gary Neville, Roy Keane, Ruud van Nistelrooy, the list goes on and on. And I despised them. My heart belonged to Michael Owen, Steven Gerrard, Robbie Fowler, and Jamie Carragher. And unsung heroes like Polish goalkeeper Jerzy Dudek. If you’re interested, John Green’s the Anthropocene Reviewed features a story about Dudek’s performance in the Champion’s League Final and the power of Liverpool’s anthem “You’ll Never Walk Alone.” It’s worth a read!
The stadium is surrounded by terrace houses with beautiful murals painted throughout the neighborhood. The day before the match, we spent some time in the neighborhood around Anfield admiring the murals and walking around the stadium when it was less crowded. We also snuck in a traditional lunch of scouse pie and mash at the iconic Homebaked Bakery.
Virgil van Dijk, current captain. When he re-signed his contract last year, he told fans “It was Always Liverpool”Robbie Fowler. One of the all-time greats and one of my favorites.
And finally, the main event! Kickoff was around 4:00 on a rainy afternoon. The stadium was packed full of home supporters, with one small area allowed for the away fans. Every home match begins with “You’ll Never Walk Alone”. The fans sing along at the top of their lungs while holding banners and scarves in the air. It was a truly magical moment that brought tears to my eyes.
The game started with a disaster. United scored just 63 seconds in. The roaring crowd went suddenly quiet. Liverpool fought back and had so many good chances that just missed. Liverpool finally scored in the 78th minute. I was so sure this was the comeback! And then United scored a second goal just 6 minutes later. Nooooo! United had not won at Anfield since January 2016. Our match ended in a 2-1 loss.
But the crowd sang and stayed with the team the entire game. Chants of “Champions!” or “Liverpool!” rang out every few minutes. Many of the players have a song created by the fans, some of which we knew and could sing along: “Mo Salah! Mo Salah! Mo Salah! Running down the wing.Mo Salah la-la-la la-ahh, The Egyptian King!โ And the song honoring Virgil van Dijk: He’s our center-half, He’s our number four, Watch him defend, And we watch him score, He’ll pass the ball, Calm as you like, He’s Virgil van Dijk, He’s Virgil van Dijk!
In the 20th minute, the entire stadium sang to honor Diogo Jota. Jota and his brother tragically died in a car accident this summer. Since his death, the fans sing in the 20th minute of every match (he was No. 20). The song goes: Oh, he wears the number 20, He will take us to victory, And when heโs running down the left wing, Heโll cut inside and score for LFC. Heโs a lad from Portugal, Better than Figo donโt you know, Oh, his name is Diogo! There are memorials to Jota around the stadium. The fans and the club really care about their players.
You’ll Never Walk Alone โค๏ธ
Thank you for reading! Next up – Slovenia๐๏ธโฐ๏ธโ๏ธ๐
Next stop – Pula on the Adriatic Sea but on the tip of the Istrian Peninsula. This meant slightly different food and wine varieties. But the blue waters and temperate climate continued!
Pula by Sea
We had a bumpy ride getting to Pula. Our early morning ferry from Hvar to Split was cancelled. So we missed our direct flight to Pula. No worries, Croatian Air had another flight to Pula, except it connected through Zagreb and Zadar. Croatian Airlines was great about rebooking and even held our flight for us in Zagreb after a delay. So we eventually made it to Pula, but our bags did not! The baggage guy dutifully filled out a paper form and that did not instill confidence. Luckily, they delivered our bags the next afternoon.
For our first day in Pula, we planned a kayaking and cliff jumping trip with a local guide. Since our luggage had not arrived, we stopped by a nearby mall and bought new bathing suits and beach wear just in time. Croatia has truly fantastic malls, like I used to enjoy when I was a teenager. Lucky for us!
New bathing suits and hats!
The kayaking tour was great. The water was beautiful and the cliffs and rocky coastline were perfect. Our guide took us to a 47 foot high cliff and told us to jump! As usual, Dusty was the braver one and jumped right off. I chickened out and was only able to jump off the “baby” cliff. Our guide also got great footage of us swimming clear water and showing off the underground caves. It was truly a beautiful place to kayak and swim.
We also visited a beach on the other side of Pula. Again, the water was perfectly clear and blue. We braved the cool water and went for a swim. It was so refreshing and well worth the chill. If that was our last swim of the year, it was a good one!
Pula – by Land
Next we explored Pula the city. Pula is an ancient settlement. The Romans conquered Pula in 177 BC and the city flourished under their rule. As a typical Roman town, it had city walls and gates, aqueducts and an amphitheater. Several of these are still standing today. Most spectacularly, Pula Arena, constructed between 27 BC and 68 AD, is mostly intact today. We first saw the arena at night, and that view was spectacular!
Arch of the Sergii
Like other Croatian towns we visited, Pula has been ruled by the Romans, Venetians, French, and the Austrians. After World War I and the collapse of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Pula went to the Italians. The Italians forced the Croatians to speak Italian and assimilate into their culture. The locals spoke of the time under Italian Fascist rule as a dark time.
“To the Fighters of the National Liberation Struggle / To the Victims of Fascism”
After Mussolini fell, Pula was occupied by the Germans and subsequently bombed by the Allies at the end of World War II. Eventually, Pula joined Yugoslavia and remained a part of that country until its collapse in 1991. Interestingly, the locals in large part revere Tito – the famous communist leader of Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death in 1980. In school, we were generally taught that Tito was an authoritarian dictator and was one of the bad guys. It was interesting to hear a different perspective throughout Croatia and Slovenia from those who lived through it. Many of the people we met spoke wistfully of Yugoslavia and said they would go back without question.
Rovinj
We had some free time in Pula, and took a short bus to the nearby town of Rovinj. Rovinj looks like a little Venice and features Venetian architecture. It was a picturesque fishing port. We only spent a few hours there. But enjoyed wandering through the narrow cobblestone streets and the great views of the blue Mediterranean sea. We also enjoyed a glass of local rosรฉ in a seaside cafe.
Rovinj
Zagreb
The capitol! And our last stop in Croatia. Zagreb is also an ancient city with a vibrant old town. What is now known as Zagreb initially consisted of two settlements – Gradec and Kaptol, founded in the 11th and 12th centuries. The two settlements fought for centuries until they were finally consolidated into Zagreb in 1850. Today you can visit both old town and see the former Medveลกฤak creek (present-day Tkalฤiฤeva Street) which divided the towns.
Zrinjevac Park
Kaptol and Gradec built walls and fortifications to protect from invasions from the Ottoman Empire. Some of the walls remain today. But only one gate remains – the Stone Gate – believed to have been built in the 13th century. It also serves as a shrine of Mother Mary. A painting inside the gate somehow survived the fire of 1731. When you visit today, there are people praying and lighting candles.
Stone Gate
One other interesting ritual, Zagreb fires the Griฤ cannon canon every day at noon. The cannon has fired, without fail, every day at noon for 110 years. We witnessed it and got a wave from the cannon operator. A very fun tradition!
In 2020, Zagreb was hit by an earthquake with a magnitude of 5.3 with the epicenter just 7 km north of the city center. The modern buildings remained largely intact, but the old town was hit hard. One of the spires of the iconic Zagreb Cathedral broke off and landed on the Archbishop’s Palace. The second spire had to be removed because it was so badly damaged and leaning. A part of the roof of the Croatian parliament collapsed. Most of the museums in the city were damaged and some, including the Croatian History Museum, remained closed today. Understandably, there was a ton of construction going on which resulted in closures, noise, and dust.
St. Mark’s ChurchStatue of Saint George
So Many Museums
With many of the classic attractions closed, we turned to Zagreb’s incredible museums. There is a claim, potentially made up, that Zagreb has more museums per capita than any other city. There were the classic museums, including the City of Zagreb Museum. It was incredible, covering ancient culture all the way through post-World War II. It’s very well done and full of treasures. We also visited the small but impactful 1991/1995 Zagreb Rocket Attacks Memorial Center. During the civil war, the Yugoslavian army struck Zagreb with rockets twice. The museum somberly showed the damage caused by the war and the human toll.
But Zagreb also has more unique museums. The Museum of Broken Relationships – exhibits consist of artifacts of relationships with a back story submitted by people from all over the world. Of course we visited the Museum of Chocolate which takes you through the development of chocolate in South America through the centuries. Plus, the museum gave you samples! We stopped by the HaHa House, a comedy museum that you enter through a slide and into a ball pit. Haven’t done that in many years!
The Museum of Illusions was interactive and so much fun. It played with mirrors, perspective, and optical illusions. We have great photos from its exhibits!
But our absolute favorite was the video game museum. The exhibits started with the 70’s with the first video games and went to present day. And you could play the games! So we played Frogger and Pac Man on arcade machines. My favorite though was playing Dr. Mario on regular Nintendo and Zelda on Super Nintendo. We could have stayed in the “museum” for hours. I would highly recommend!
You can see the concentration
This completes our time in Croatia. It was a beautiful country. The people were lovely. The food was fresh. The wine was interesting and delicious. It was 18 days well spent. We would love to come back in the Spring/Summer when it’s warm enough to really enjoy the water.
But now it’s on to England. A visit to England does not fit in with the rest of our trip. But there was a very good reason for this out of the way stop!
Thank you for reading! Let us know if you have questions and feel free to comment here!
We are spending 18 days in Croatia. Way too much for one post, so this is Part I covering Zadar, Split and Hvar. Croatia is a beautiful country with fascinating history, great wine, and crystal blue water. We were here in the shoulder season, which was great for reduced crowds and the water was just warm enough for refreshing swims. It was a great time to visit!
Zadar
Zadar has thrived for over 3,000 years, and its Roman ruins still stand as proof of its long history. On one side of the Old Town, builders created a spacious waterfront with wide walkways and ladders leading into the sea for swimmers. Over the centuries, various empires ruled Zadar, and the architecture reflects their influenceโRoman, Byzantine, Venetian, Austrian, and Italian. During World War II, Allied forces bombed the city and destroyed 80% of its buildings. After the war, Zadar joined communist Yugoslavia, which led to the construction of post-war buildings in the stark communist block style. As you walk through Zadarโs Old Town, you can spot elements from each era and culture woven into the city’s architecture. We found this mix of influences really interesting.
We ate delicious seafood in Zadar including black risotto – risotto made with cuttlefish ink to give it that black color (like squid ink). The seafood was so fresh and the produce all comes from local farms. You can taste the difference. It’s one of the things that makes visiting the Mediterranean so special.
Donโt sleep on Croatian wine! Tucked into the courtyard of an old church, The Wine Garden is a cozy spot where we enjoyed a fantastic wine tasting paired with local prosciutto and Pag cheese (a rich sheepโs milk cheese from the Island of Pag). Zadar also takes pride in its signature spirit: Maraschino, a cherry liqueur made from native maraska cherriesโdefinitely worth a sip. Per usual, we visited a local brewery, Brlog, whose slogan is “Crafted by Stubbornness.” It stood outโnot just for its great beer, but for being founded by two women. True to its rebellious spirit, my favorite brew was โNeposluลกna,โ AKAโDisobedient.โ
Finally, we took a boat ride and visited a few of the smaller islands near Zadar. The water was just warm enough for a swim in the crystal clear blue Mediterranean. Our favorite!
Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitviฤka Jezera)
Next, we took a bus to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. After entering the park, we had an incredible view overlooking the huge waterfalls (slaps) and ethereal green water.
We walked along the boardwalk through the park and marveled at the waterfalls, lakes and fall foliage. It was a magical place. If you visit Croatia, it’s a must see. The pictures don’t do the park justice, so make sure to check out the video footage on our You Tube channel for an even better look.
Split
Our second home base, Split, the largest city in Dalmatia. Split’s Old Town centers around Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian built the palace in 305 AD as his retirement home after he resigned as Roman emperor. Through the centuries, the people continued to build onto and around the palace. Walking through you see the different architectural styles – Roman temples turned to Christian churches, middle age era homes, and modern storefronts. The palace is still part of the city and is filled with shops and restaurants among the ancient ruins.
Diocletian’s PalacePalace Cellar – Game of Thrones filmed dragon scenes here!
As if this weren’t enough, Split is on the coast and surrounded by clear blue water. We trekked up to the top of the old town and were rewarded with great views of the city and port. Split is also a bustling city blending the old and the new. Our Airbnb was in a modern apartment building surrounded by corporate buildings, businesses, and a huge shopping mall (I miss those!). Split was one of our favorite visits on the trip so far.
Krka National Park
Next, we took a bus from Split to visit Krka National Park. We rented e-bikes and rode along the scenic path to the park entrance. Near the entrance to the park, we found Kradinski Buk waterfall. Yes, more waterfalls and clear green water! Croatia is truly a beautiful country.
Hvar
Finally, Hvar, our last stop in Dalmatia. We took the fast ferry from Split to the island of Hvar. Hvar has it all – historic towns, picturesque villages, turquoise water, and sunsets to die for! It’s famous for its fancy resorts and we were glad to visit in the off season and miss the big summer crowds.
For sightseeing, we took a tuk tuk tour with Luka, a local guide. Luka told us the most interesting story how he was a blues player as a teenager and won a trip to play in Memphis. He loved Beale Street and dreams of going back. He was thrilled to hear we were from Mississippi. We saw rural parts of the island including tiny villages, and breathtaking hills and valleys overlooking the sea.
During the tour we stumbled upon a Croatian wedding celebration. We have seen this a few times – after the wedding they take to the streets, kind of like a second line but way more. This one involved flares, cars, flags and chaos! It seems like a really fun tradition.
We really enjoyed this part of our trip and would love to go back to Dalmatia in the summer when we can fully experience the beaches, islands, and water. Next up, Pula on the Istria Peninsula and Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.
Thank you for reading! Let us know if you like what you see or have questions!
