Travel Archives - Roaming DINKs

January 12, 2026January 12, 2026

Spain – Saving the Best for Last

And finally, for our last stop on this epic trip – Spain! Spain is a large country with so much to see. So we focused on the big sites in the northern part of the country – Santiago de Compostela, Segovia, Madrid, Zaragoza and Barcelona. We could have stayed in Spain for months and still not seen everything. This was a truly beautiful way to end our trip.

Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela is the capital of the Galicia region. But it is most famous as the destination for pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago aka Way of St. James. We did not have time to walk the camino (hopefully in the future), but we did enjoy visiting the city. The historic old town centers around the magnificent Cathedral , which said to house the remains of the apostle St. James.

We learned a lot more about the history of St. James and his importance to the people of Spain. He is the patron saint of Spain and Galicia. We were familiar with James the apostle. But in Spain, he has three identities. He is well known as St. James the Pilgrim (hence the camino) because tradition says he traveled to Spain to preach the gospel. St. James the Pilgrim is often depicted wearing a wide-brimmed hat, scallop shell, a cloak, staff and a book. But the more interesting legend, is St. James the Moor-Slayer. Legend says that St. James miraculously appeared to help the Spanish Christians in a medieval battle and lead them to victory over the Moors. The statutes depicting St. James as the Moor-Slayer were our favorite.

Galicia in the winter means rain, and rain it did. For this spot, we booked a very nice Airbnb in the countryside. It had a great living room, kitchen, big bedrooms, and a hot tub! This turned out to be perfect planning – due to the weather we spent a lot of time inside. It was also time for a rest after so much travel.

Segovia

Next stop Segovia, a city with thousands of years of history and beautiful sites to visit. When we arrived, the city was beautifully decorated for Christmas, adding even more to its charm.

Segovia is jammed full of beautiful buildings and unique architecture. First, the stunning Roman aqueducts dating back from the 1st or 2nd century. Second, the Segovia Cathedral, the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. Third, the Alcazar, a stunning royal palace built in the 12th century. The Alcazar is rumored to have inspired Cinderella’s Castle at Walt Disney World and the Wicked Queen’s castle in Snow White. We visited inside, and then took a walk to view it from below. Stunning!

We ate some really good food in Segovia. Everyone has heard of tapas, Spanish ham, and paella. But Segovia had its own cuisine, which was hearty and rustic, typical for this region. But the must-try dish is cochinillo asado or roasted suckling pig. We put our guilt aside and tried it. Pretty good!

Segovia had a lot of interesting architecture. The buildings looked a little bit different depending on the neighborhood. We really loved the Mudéjar art – Islamic decorative elements added to Iberian Christian buildings. The art represents the peaceful co-existence of Muslims and Christians in Spain during the medieval ages. However, when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella came to power and the 15th century they expelled all of the Muslims and Jewish people unless they agreed to convert. Mudéjar can be seen on the Alcazar and throughout Segovia.

Juan Bravo Statue – Mudéjar on the building in the foreground

Madrid

From small Segovia, to bustling Madrid! We typically prefer smaller cities, but Madrid was an exception. This was one of our favorite visits of the entire trip. We loved wandering the streets. The architecture, the buildings, and the Christmas lights were incredible.

Real Madrid CF

We had no plans to attend a soccer match in Madrid. But … Manchester City was in town for a big Champion’s League match. So we had to go! I’m so glad we did. It was an incredible atmosphere and we saw some of the best players in the world do their thing. The next day we went on a stadium tour of the Bernabeu. This tour included the museum, locker rooms, and players sidelines. It was an excellent tour, and gave us a perspective of the stadium we did not get by attending a match. Highly recommend!

Sitting where Mbappe sat the night before (maybe)

Madrid – Food and Wine

As with every city we visited, we tried the local food and wine. We went on a food tour and had the most amazing croquetas filled with ham and bechamel sauce, vermouth, patatas bravas, and so many tapas! But the real star is the Iberican ham (Jamón Ibérico) which is cured pork leg. But this is not your average prosciutto. This ham comes from native black Iberican pigs which roam free in the oak forests and only eat acorns. We were also told they receive massages and listen to classical music before being slaughtered – who knows if that is true. But they were delicious and on display everywhere in their unique way.

Plus, we took a cooking class – this time making paella and sangria! In the class, we learned how to make the iconic Spanish dish and how to differentiate between an authentic and tourist paella. We look forward to trying at home! We also went on a wine tour of the wineries in the Madrid D.O. It was a nice ride in the countryside and we learned more about the Spanish wine. In particular we loved the Garnacha reds.

We ended our visit with a Flamenco dance show in a beautiful theater in operation since 1911. The band and singers were the perfect accompaniment. We barely scratched the surface and cannot wait to go back to Madrid.

Tradition says that if you touch the bears butt you will return to Madrid. Which I did!

Zaragoza

Zaragoza is the capital of the Aragon region and a lovely town on the Ebro River. We arrived and checked into our Airbnb and discovered our breathtaking view of the old town.

Zaragoza is a historical city with thousands of years of history. The city was founded by the Romans in the 1st century B.C. and called Caesaraugusta. There are Roman ruins found throughout the old town, but the best preserved is the theatre. It was only discovered when the area was under construction. It has since been excavated and turned into a museum.

The real showpiece is the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar. Its facade dominates the skylines and is featured in every picture of Zaragoza. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to St. James at Caesaraugusta, while he was preaching the Gospel in Hispania. She appeared upon a pillar and asked that he build a church in her honor. James complied and constructed a small chapel which is said to be the first church built for the Virgin. James returned to Jerusalem, was executed and his body was returned to Spain (Santiago) for burial. But the pillar upon which Mary appeared was kept by the people and is said to be preserved within the present Basilica. People travel to the Basilica to touch and even kiss the pillar. The Basilica was beautifully decorated inside and out and a very important site for Catholics.

We went on a food tour in Zaragoza to try the local food and wine. We told the guide that we were adventurous and would try anything. So she fixed us up with herring and sardine specialties! We also tried mushrooms, croquetas, and great local wine. Finally, we ended our visit by going on a wine tour of the Cariñena region. On top of tasting delicious wine, we got to meet wonderful small wine producers and explore the countryside outside of the city.

Herring with red peppers and sardines with chocolate!

Barcelona

Our last stop! Over the past few years, Barcelona has becoming the most visited city in the world. It’s a beautiful city full of interesting architecture, small winding streets, great restaurants, culture and lovely people. We were fortunate to visit in December when there were less people and fantastic Christmas decorations.

One thing to know about Barcelona, it is part of Catalonia, but not necessarily Spain. The people consider themselves to be Catalan. They primarily speak Catalan and fly the Catalan flag. Spain has several autonomous communities (Galicia, Aragon, etc.). But the Catalan really mean it. Along with the Catalan flag, many people fly the Catalan independence flag. In 2017, the Catalans held an independence referendum vote which passed by 92%. The vote was declared unconstitutional by the Constitutional Court of Spain. So Catalonia is still a part of Spain. But there is a strong independence movement brewing.

Building opposite city hall adorned with Catalan independence flags

It’s All About Gaudí

Antoni Gaudí was a Catalan architect and designer who became part of the modernist movement in the late 1800’s. His work incorporated nature and religion and he worked with ceramics, stained glass, wrought iron, and carpentry. His buildings are unmistakable and are found throughout Barcelona.

But the biggest and most popular is the Sagrada Familia. The construction began in 1882 and is still ongoing today! Gaudi planned the cathedral and its very unique architecture and worked on it until his death in 1926. Construction progressed through the 20th century, slowed by the Spanish Civil War and political turbulence. It is forecast to be completed in 2026 (we will see). When completed, its central tower will stand at 172 meters, making it the tallest church in the world. The Sagrada Familia is unlike any other church. It’s exterior and interior are Gaudi’s masterpiece, with detail and design evoking nature in his modernist style. We have visited so many churches and cathedrals on our travels. But this one is the most unique by far.

Sagrada Familia in the distance – it dominates the cityscape

Montjuic

We took a funicular up to Montjuïc (“Jewish Mountain” in medieval Catalan) a large hill overlooking Barcelona. At the top, we visited Montjuïc Castle, built in the 1600’s due to its strategic view of the city and the sea. We walked down the hill and visited the arena and memorial to the 1992 Olympic Games. We also admired the Palau Nacional, home to the National Art Museum of Catalonia.

Montserrat

We took a day trip to visit the stunning Montserrat. Montserrat meaning “Serrated Mountain” is famous for its jagged peaks and beautiful rock formations. We took the train up to the site of the Benedictine monastery which offered dramatic views of the mountains and valley. When we arrived early in the morning, fog blanketed the valley. When it lifted we had lovely views. We went down into the valley and visited Oller del Mas winery. We were treated to a tasty lunch in their lodge and a wine tasting- all with the peaks in the background.

Penedes

On our last day in Spain, we visited the villages of Lavern and Subirats in the Penedes wine region. We rented e-bikes, rode through the vineyards and visited one winery. Since it was December 22, everything was quiet and shutting down for the holidays. But it was nice to see an area outside of the city and visit and taste the local wine.

The End

We spent one last night in Barcelona before starting the journey home. We ate some wonderful food in Barcelona. But our favorite meal was a ribeye for two, complete with our own tableside grill. We were treated to a lovely sunset on our final night. A subtle cosmic goodbye to a wonderful vacation.

This marks the end of our 100 day second honeymoon. It exceeded our wildest expectations. It was so freeing to travel without the worry of work or what we were missing at home. We are so fortunate to have an opportunity to visit so many incredible places. And to spend so much time together.

Thank you for reading our posts. We are so happy to share our adventures with you. Next up, the big one, we are moving to New Zealand!

January 3, 2026January 3, 2026

Putting the Port in Portugal

Next up, Portugal! We planned visits to Portugal’s two biggest cities – the capital Lisbon and second city Porto.

Lisbon

Our first stop was lovely Lisbon, known for its cobblestone streets, historic charms, and the very steep hills! We booked an Air BnB in the lively Cais do Sodré neighborhood, just off the famous Pink Street. The bars and clubs literally kept going until the early morning hours.

We did lots of fun things in Lisbon. We went on a food tour and got our first taste of the cuisine – salted cod, seafood rice, bifana (pork sandwiches), sardines (yes sardines!), and all the fresh seafood you can imagine! Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur served in a chocolate cup, was also a must try. But the most famous are the pastéis de nata – egg custard tarts with crispy flaky crusts. So much new food to try and definitely a different flavor from France!

Did I mention that Lisbon is hilly? So to explore the city we booked a tuk tuk tour to save our legs. We had the sweetest guide who stopped to show us cool spots and wonderful lookouts over the city.

The Christmas season began while we were in Lisbon. The mayor hosted a huge ceremony to turn on the Christmas lights around the city. We happened to be eating dinner at a rooftop restaurant and were treated to a surprise firework show (part of the Christmas celebration). The lights decorated many of the streets in the old town. It was really beautiful.

If you have read our previous posts, you know we tried the local wine. Portugal is famous for port wine. We tried a lot of it and really enjoyed it. At home, we often had port with dessert. But we learned so much more about the different types of port and the serious aging process. We scheduled a port wine tasting with From the Vine. The wine was so good, we booked a second tasting of the whites and reds. Portugal has a huge wine scene, including the Vinho Verde or green wine. Vinho verde is crisp, fresh and slightly fizzy white wine from a region in northern Portugal. And of course, the wine from the Douro Valley is amazing (more on that later).

Sintra & Cascais

We took a day trip from Lisbon to visit the iconic Pena Palace in Sintra. The Pena Palace is a UNESCO world heritage site with a wall walk that offers great views of the countryside. The architecture is Romantic style, with colorful facades, beautiful tile work and Moorish touches. The interior was restored to how it would have appeared when the Portuguese royals fled to Brazil in 1910. Definitely worth the trip.

We also visited the beach town of Cascais, which previously served as the summer spot for royalty. Cascais still has famous King’s and Queen’s beaches. We ate a delicious lunch in the village and went for a stroll on the beach and made sure to put our feet in the cool water.

Seafood pasta with fresh mussels, squid, and prawns

Cape Roca

As part of our visit to Sintra, we stopped by Cape Roca – the westernmost point of continental Europe. What a stunning place! There is a monument and lighthouse to mark the spot. But we were not prepared for the natural beauty. We had a beautiful view of the cliffs, blue water, and rolling green countryside.

Porto

Our last stop in Portugal – Porto. We really loved this city – a historic old town built up the steep hills rising from the Douro River. We had a great Airbnb with a view of the river overlooking the sister city of Gaia. Porto was smaller than Lisbon and had a different, more authentic feel.

The city had so much to offer. We loved walking this city and admiring the architecture which features beautiful tiles cover the exterior and interior of buildings. One of the most popular spots, Livaria Lello – called the most beautiful bookstore in the world! A city that features books is our kind of place!

Lady Justice outside a dictator-era courthouse – notable for no scales or blindfold, but with a sword

Port Wine

Of course Porto is famous for its port wine. Port is a fortified wine – meaning that the fermentation process is stopped by the addition of a spirit like aguardente which results in sweet wine with high alcohol content. This process was created by British merchants to keep the wine from spoiling during the trip to England. The grapes come from the nearby Douro Valley but the wine is produced and stored in the famous cellars or caves in Porto/Gaia. We toured the cellars at Taylor and Sandeman and tasted their varieties, including wine that had been aged for 30 or 40 years. It was really fun and we learned so much.

Porto also has a World of Wine which features seven museums, a wine school, shops and restaurants. We visited The Wine Experience, Planet Cork, and The Chocolate Story – all very good museums. Our favorite exhibit showcased clever art work depicting the different grape varieties. Our favorite was Sauvignon Blanc featuring New Zealand!

Douro Valley

Finally, we took a wine tour to the dramatic Douro Valley, the world’s oldest demarcated wine region. Named for the river, the region features terraced vineyards which makes for breathtaking scenery. Grapes have been grown on these hillsides for over 2,000 years. This is the birthplace of Port but also features great red and white wine.

Scott the vineyard dog, who loves to eat grapes during harvest

That ends our visit to Portugal. We would love to go back one day and explore some of the smaller cities and towns and of course the Algarve when it’s warmer.

Thank you for reading! Next post our last country to visit, Spain!

January 2, 2026January 2, 2026

France Part Deux – Nice and Bordeaux

We left beautiful Beaune by train and headed south to Nice, the largest city in the French Riviera. Back to pebbly beaches, blue water, and sunsets!

Per usual, we started our visit with a food tour. Niçoise cuisine is a mix of French and Italian, heavy on seafood and completely different from other French regions. We ate a few local staples like socca (a thin chickpea flour pancake), pan bagnat (sandwich with olive oil soaked bread, fresh seafood, tomatoes and olives), and pissaladière (pizza-like tart with onions, anchovies and olives). But as we learned, Swiss chard is the staple of the cuisine – people from Nice are nicknamed “caga blea” or “chard eaters”! We even had a tourte de blette sucrée” – a chard dessert! Fair to say, not quite what we expected but we appreciated the unique dishes! Unfortunately, we did not take many pictures of the food, but that’s not because it wasn’t delicious.

Nice was historically an Italian city and was only ceded to France in 1860. The Old Town looks very Italian with its narrow streets and colorful buildings. The main square is named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian general born in Nice that contributed to the unification of Italy. This history gives Nice a totally different feel than the other parts of France we visited.

Next up – the wine! Although well-known as being part of the Cote d’Azur, it is also a part of Provence! We went on a wine tour through some of the smaller wineries and vineyards in Provence. People typically associate with Provence with rosé but there is so much more quality wine in the area. But we also drank truly exceptional rosé – light and fresh, not full of sugar or red and white wine mixed together. The French would never!

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

Nice is surrounded by beautiful coastal towns like Cannes, Antibes, and Eze (the list goes on and on) that are easily accessible by bus or train. We had plans to visit several, but the weather did not cooperate. Improbably, we were woken up by the sound of hail on the roof of our apartment one morning! So we only got to visit one nearby town, but it was arguably the best one – Saint-Jean-Cap Ferrat.

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is located on a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean and ends at Cap Ferrat. The peninsula features a walking path that covers the entire peninsula’s rocky coastline. We almost made it to Cap Ferrat when the police closed the path due to rough seas. We had definitely noticed the big waves and even got splashed a few times!

The town is also ranked as the second most expensive residential location in the world. Since the coastal pathway was closed, we walked to the interior and marveled at the beautiful homes and gardens. This also gave us a chance to explore the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, built between 1907 and 1912 by Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild. The villa is now a museum and the home and gardens are impeccably maintained. Plus the villa has a stunning view of the Mediterranean and coastline. We did not plan to visit the villa but are so glad we did.

Bordeaux

We left the Coast and headed inland to our last stop in France – Bordeaux. The city is beautiful, the restaurants are delicious and of course, the wine is world class. Bordeaux felt like a mini-Paris and, due to the newish high speed train, is populated by a lot of former-Parisians. We had a great time wandering the city.

Beautiful fountain in memory of the local revolutionaries- turned off and drained for winter

The most fascinating thing – the city gates. Like a ton of European cities, Bordeaux was originally surrounded by defensive walls. The walls are gone, but a few of the gates were preserved. And while accurate, “gate” does not describe the incredible buildings that remain from the 15th century.

Bordeaux has a signature pastry, canelés, which are a rum and vanilla flavored cakes with a soft custard center and caramelized crust. If you knew where to buy them, they were delicious! Bordeaux is only about 40 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. So along with traditional French cuisine, they also had excellent fresh seafood. Our favorite was the steamed mussels which pair perfectly with crisp white wine!

The Wine

Finally, Bordeaux is world-famous for their red wine. And we drank plenty! One of the main attractions is La Cite de Vin – an all encompassing wine museum with tastings on the rooftop. We spent a whole afternoon there and still missed some of the exhibitions. It is a cannot miss if you’re ever in Bordeaux.

We visited the famous Médoc wine region, which is located just outside Bordeaux. We saw beautiful fields of vineyards, chateaus, and medieval villages. In particular, we loved Saint Emilion and Margaux. We stopped at a few of the chateaus and sampled the delicious local wine. One of our favorite things to do on vacation!

This brings on time in France to a close. Next post Portugal!

Thank you for following along!

December 18, 2025December 18, 2025

France Part Une – Paris and Beaune

Our next stop – 3.5 glorious weeks in France. We visited Paris, Beaune (Burgundy region), Nice and Bordeaux. As you might expect, there this is too much for one post. So Part Une will cover Paris and Beaune. Enjoy!

Paris

Where to start?! Paris is pure magic – the history, fashion, food, and of course romance. We had a wonderful time simply wandering the streets, taking in views of the Siene, the architecture, the art, the culture. There is so much to do and see,. In our six days we only scratched the surface.

The Eiffel Tower

Although initially hated by the French, to us Paris is all about the Eiffel Tower. We used our Chase points to book a fancy hotel with a view of the Eiffel Tower. It was fabulous and cost us nothing! We enjoyed different viewpoints, from above and below, of the Eiffel Tower from all over the city.

The Food

Paris, for good reason, boasts some of the best food in the world. We had some of the most delicious meals of our lives at random cafes and restaurants. We also enjoyed a food tour in the Montmartre neighborhood that ended with a great overlook of the city. In an effort to learn the secrets, we took a cooking class and learned how to make croissants and pain au chocolat the French way (hint – lots of butter). The pastries turned out delicious in class. We will see if we can replicate once we get home!

The Culture

You cannot visit Paris without art. We visited the Musee d’Orsay which houses the largest collection of impressionist works. In particular, we were excited to see paintings by Claude Monet, Edward Degas and of course Vincent van Gogh. The museum itself was stunning, plus the world class paintings and sculptures. We really enjoyed our visit. We also took a tour of the Palais Garnier – Paris’s opera house and one of the most ornate buildings we have ever seen. Unfortunately there were no performances, opera or ballet, scheduled during our visit. That is definitely on our list for next time.

Mont Saint-Michel

We took a day trip to the Normandy region to visit Mont Saint-Michel. This stunning island features a medieval abbey. But what makes this place unique are the tides. When the tide goes out, the island is accessible by foot. But when the tide is in, it is surrounded by water. The tides vary greatly – up to 45 feet between high and low tide! The abbey was constructed in the 8th century after (as the myth goes) Archangel Michael appeared and directed a monk to build a church on the island. The island later became a pilgrimage site for medieval Christians. However, the trek could be dangerous depending on the tides. We walked to the island across a wooden boardwalk but were warned to steer clear of the quicksand surrounding the area. It was an interesting place to see and worthy of a day trip.

Beaune

Now for the opposite of sprawling Paris – charming Beaune. Beaune is famous worldwide as the capital of Burgundy wines. Beaune is a medieval city with intact walls, ramparts and historical buildings in the old town. The Hospices de Beaune is the showpiece – a perfectly preserved 15th century hospital for the poor.

Hospices de Beaune – great hall where patients were treated

Veloroute La Voie des Vignes

But, this is Burgundy and we were there for the wine! Beaune is surrounded by vineyards and some of the most famous wine villages in the world. Beaune connects with the Voie des Vignes – a bicycle path that winds its way through the vineyards and villages from Santenay to Dijon. We rented e-bikes and spent our days riding through the hills, vineyards and to several villages.

And Oh the Châteaux

After biking through the vineyards, the highlight was stopping at châteaux for wine tastings. We learned so much about Burgundy wines and the particularities of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. We tasted wines that we could trace to the specific plot of land from which the grapes were harvested. You could spend a lifetime learning the nuances of Burgundy wine. We learned enough to know we were in love.

I hope you enjoyed the highlights of part une. Next post – Nice and Bordeaux! We truly love France. But for now, au revoir!

December 4, 2025December 4, 2025

Slovenia – The Best Little Country

Slovenia is about the size of New Jersey and has a population of just 2 million people. But wow, it has everything – mountains, lakes, gorges, beaches, cities, food and wine! This was one of our most surprising visits. The locals say that it’s shaped like a chicken and describe the different areas accordingly “chicken head” or “chicken butt.”

With a little imagination, you can see the chicken

Bled

First stop, Bled. This cute alpine town is famous for Lake Bled and Bled Castle . Bled is a popular tourist destination, especially in the summer. We were lucky to visit in the fall when there were less crowds. Plus we were treated with autumn leaves. It was incredible.

First, we walked around the footpath that winds around the lake, giving different vantage points. We wandered the streets of the alpine village, sampling food at the cute cafes and restaurants along the way. The food had a German/Austrian feel – lots of meat, sausage and potatoes. Which suited us just fine! We sampled the world famous Bled cake. We really loved our stay in Bled and wish we would have had a few more days to explore the Alpine portion of Slovenia. Next time!

Vintgar Gorge

Next, we took a short drive north of Bled and visited the Vintgar Gorge (Soteska Vintgar) – a 1.6 km canyon featuring blue/green water, sheer limestone cliffs and beautiful autumn foliage. For a small entry fee, we were able to walk along the boardwalk path that winds its way through the canyon and waterfalls. After leaving the gorge itself, we were treated to a lovely walk through the Slovene countryside. Vintgar Gorge is a cannot miss for anyone visiting Bled.

Piran

Next we visited Piran – a coastal village on the Adriatic Sea. Slovenia only has about 30 miles of coastline, but they make the most of it. Piran was ruled by the Venetians for approximately 500 years and the Venetian influence is obvious on the architecture and culture of the village. The city is officially bilingual (Slovene and Italian). We found a great Airbnb right on the main square with a balcony overlooking the sea and the sunsets!

We planned a lot of fun activities in Piran. First, we went for a truffle hunt! Truffles are found in this part of Slovenia and are a huge part of the local cuisine. So we went right to the source. We met locals in the nearby town of Gažon and went into the forest with our guide, the hunter and his dog. We always thought truffles were hunted with pigs. Pigs are superior at finding the truffles, but they cannot help but eat them. Dogs are way more trainable. Our truffle dog was a mix of a golden retriever and lab and was so cute! And the best part, our guide took us back to her home where we prepared truffle pasta with fresh local ingredients. Delicious!

Next, we went on an e-bike tour of the countryside. It was great to get out into the green hills, vineyards, salt pans, and enjoy great views. We have ridden e-bikes a few times on this vacation, and really love them.

Piran is the peninsula in the background of the photo

Finally, we rented Vespas from a guide and drove through the inland countryside. We loved this tour because riding Vespas is fun and it took us to an area tourists rarely see. The highlight came when we visited Krkavče, a quaint village dating back to the 9th century. Only about 250 people still live there, and we were the only outsiders in the village.The people were friendly and were welcomed by the church’s caregiver with local fruits and a bouquet of wildflowers.

Postojna Caves

After leaving Piran, we stopped by the breathtaking Potojna Caves – a 15 mile long cave system carved by the Pivka River over millions of years. The visit to the cave begins and ends with a train ride through the tunnels and has a lengthy walking tour in the middle. The caves were breathtaking. The stalagmite and stalactites were huge and unlike any we had ever seen. This is one of Slovenia’s top tourist attractions for a reason. We also visited the nearby Predjama Castle – a medieval castle somehow carved directly into the cliffs. This was a short stop on our way to Ljubljana, but one we will never forget.

Ljubljana

Our final stop – the capital and Slovenia’s largest city. We loved Ljubljana – it was so clean, walkable, relaxed, and the fall foliage made the city plain beautiful. The Ljubljanica river runs through the city and is crisscrossed with beautiful bridges. Plus a castle overlooks the city and the symbol is a dragon. Ljubljana is straight out of a fairytale! Everyone we met was so kind and welcoming. They were genuinely excited to tell us more about their country and give us recommendations on what to do next.

After arriving in Ljubljana, our first activity was a home cooking class with the mother-son team of Alenka and Luka. This was one of the most special things we did in Slovenia. They welcomed us into their family home with a lunch of homemade goulash and polenta. We spent hours in their home, learning to make Štruklji – rolled dough stuffed with cottage cheese and topped with cinnamon. The food and wine were delicious. But the highlight was spending time with Alenka and Luka and getting a peek into what it is like to live and work in Slovenia. While the struklji was cooking, Alenka took us for a walk in their neighborhood and stopped to talk to neighbors along the way. I cannot recommend this experience enough! Next time we are in Slovenia, our first call is to Alenka!

On a walk in Alenka and Luka’s neighborhood

We also did a food tour and made fast friends with our local guide Jasmina. We ate delicious food, drank good wine, and finished with a rooftop bar at sunset. She even helped us plan the rest of our trip to Slovenia – recommending we visit the chicken neck! If you’re in Ljubljana, book this food tour!

Road Trip to the Chicken Neck

We rented a car in Slovenia so we could explore the rural parts of the country a little better. On our final day in Slovenia, we took Jasmina’s advice and visited the chicken neck – the cities of Maribor, Ptuj, and the vineyards of Jeruzalem. It was easy to get around on Slovenia’s well maintained roads. And we are so glad we visited these out of the way places. They were incredibly beautiful.

World’s Oldest Noble Grapevine – Planted Between 1572 and 1622

Our visit to Slovenia well exceeded our expectations. We cannot wait to go back and explore more! But for now, it’s on to France

Thank you for following along!

November 18, 2025November 18, 2025

A Quick Detour for an Experience of a Lifetime

Next stop, England, for a little detour before we continue on (or back) to Slovenia. But there is a good reason for this stop. Lauren has been obsessed with Liverpool Football Club since high school. Her college dorm featured a poster of Michael Owen (former Liverpool and England great and a cutie). So, we added a bucket list stop onto our trip of a lifetime!

London

But first, London! We only spent a few days in London on our way to Liverpool. We hit the big spots on the first day – Buckingham Palace for a changing of the guard, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, Parliament, and Trafalgar Square to name a few. No explanation necessary for these world famous spots. It is London so it was rainy. But it did not damper our spirits.

Theater in the West End

After seeing the traditional stops, we decided to focus the rest of our visit on drama. We caught two shows in the West End. The first was Harry Potter and the Cursed Child – an epic play presented in two full length parts. The play started in the afternoon and took a break for dinner to come back for the second. The production and sets created were incredible. Somehow they created “dementors” that flew all around the theater. The play has been in rotation in the West End for years. But unbeknownst to us, we saw the opening night of a new cast. So there was a special finale and some of the actors addressed the audience to talk about how special this opening night was. We felt so lucky to catch this show.

We also saw Six – a play featuring Henry VIII’s “Six” wives. It was a really fun, poppy, musical. The wives told their stories with humor, music and beautiful costumes. It was totally different from Harry Potter. We feel like we got a great theater experience.

The Old Bailey

We also saw live theater – part of a trial at the historic Old Bailey. The Central Criminal Court of England and Wales is held in a historic courthouse known as the Old Bailey. The Court is open to the public, but subject to strict security. We checked our phones and cameras into a secure storage and got in the queue for the public gallery.

Once inside, we asked the security guards if any proceedings were in session. After a few attempts, we came to a courtroom that was in the middle of a rape trial. Jackpot! We were warned to remain completely quiet and were ushered into balcony seating above the courtroom. The scene was straight out of a British TV drama – barristers in wigs and robes, the Judge (“My Lady” in the Old Bailey) in her red robes and wig.

As we entered, the barristers were arguing an evidentiary motion. The terminology was a little bit different, but the principles involving hearsay and rape shield rules of evidence were pretty similar. Just like in the US, the Judge was pretty sharp with the defense lawyer 😊 From there, we saw part of the defense barrister’s cross-examination. The styles were different (much more polite) but the strategy was the same. It was an enthralling 3 hours. Afterwards, we were able to access the docket to see that the trial proceeded for several more days, but there was nothing declaring the verdict. I like to think this means it was a Not Guilty! Usually there’s no press release for a defense verdict 😉

Liverpool

Next stop, Liverpool! Of course we were here to see the match. But we took some time to walk around the city and learn more about its history. Everyone knows about Liverpool because of the Beatles. There is a rich musical history, which is owed in part to the Mississippi Blues. No matter where we go, there is always a connection to home.

The Cavern Club – known as the birthplace of the Beatles

Like Mississippi, Liverpool also has a difficult past. The Port of Liverpool rose to prominence due to the slave trade and the importation of cotton from the American south. Because cotton was king, when the Civil War broke out, Liverpool took the side of the confederacy supplying money and ships. We learned that the last confederate surrender occurred in Liverpool in November 1865, when the confederate warship Shenandoah surrendered in Liverpool. As the story goes, those onboard the Shenandoah thought it would be better to surrender in Liverpool rather than face the music in the US. And the sailors were allowed to stay. The US later demanded compensation from England for Liverpool’s supplying ships and allowing the confederates to use their ports. As a result, the British government paid the US £3,000,000 in compensation! We were not aware of this bit of Civil War history.

Now, Liverpool is a vibrant city with a fun restaurant and night life scene. We ate good food, caught live music and drank good beer during our visit. Liverpool also has a vibrant film industry. It is “Gotham City” in Batman. Other notable productions filmed in Liverpool include Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Peaky Blinders, Captain America, Florence Foster Jenkins, and many more.

Homeless Jesus statue – depicting Jesus as a homeless person sleeping on a bench

You’ll Never Walk Alone

Now, the main event. Liverpool v. Manchester United at Anfield (Liverpool’s stadium). When I started watching English Premier League soccer in high school, Manchester United was the biggest club around. They had players like David Beckham, Wayne Rooney, Gary Neville, Roy Keane, Ruud van Nistelrooy, the list goes on and on. And I despised them. My heart belonged to Michael Owen, Steven Gerrard, Robbie Fowler, and Jamie Carragher. And unsung heroes like Polish goalkeeper Jerzy Dudek. If you’re interested, John Green’s the Anthropocene Reviewed features a story about Dudek’s performance in the Champion’s League Final and the power of Liverpool’s anthem “You’ll Never Walk Alone.” It’s worth a read!

The stadium is surrounded by terrace houses with beautiful murals painted throughout the neighborhood. The day before the match, we spent some time in the neighborhood around Anfield admiring the murals and walking around the stadium when it was less crowded. We also snuck in a traditional lunch of scouse pie and mash at the iconic Homebaked Bakery.

Virgil van Dijk, current captain. When he re-signed his contract last year, he told fans “It was Always Liverpool”

Robbie Fowler. One of the all-time greats and one of my favorites.

And finally, the main event! Kickoff was around 4:00 on a rainy afternoon. The stadium was packed full of home supporters, with one small area allowed for the away fans. Every home match begins with “You’ll Never Walk Alone”. The fans sing along at the top of their lungs while holding banners and scarves in the air. It was a truly magical moment that brought tears to my eyes.

The game started with a disaster. United scored just 63 seconds in. The roaring crowd went suddenly quiet. Liverpool fought back and had so many good chances that just missed. Liverpool finally scored in the 78th minute. I was so sure this was the comeback! And then United scored a second goal just 6 minutes later. Nooooo! United had not won at Anfield since January 2016. Our match ended in a 2-1 loss.

But the crowd sang and stayed with the team the entire game. Chants of “Champions!” or “Liverpool!” rang out every few minutes. Many of the players have a song created by the fans, some of which we knew and could sing along: “Mo Salah! Mo Salah! Mo Salah! Running down the wing. Mo Salah la-la-la la-ahh, The Egyptian King!” And the song honoring Virgil van Dijk: He’s our center-half, He’s our number four, Watch him defend, And we watch him score, He’ll pass the ball, Calm as you like, He’s Virgil van Dijk, He’s Virgil van Dijk!

In the 20th minute, the entire stadium sang to honor Diogo Jota. Jota and his brother tragically died in a car accident this summer. Since his death, the fans sing in the 20th minute of every match (he was No. 20). The song goes: Oh, he wears the number 20, He will take us to victory, And when he’s running down the left wing, He’ll cut inside and score for LFC. He’s a lad from Portugal, Better than Figo don’t you know, Oh, his name is Diogo! There are memorials to Jota around the stadium. The fans and the club really care about their players.

You’ll Never Walk Alone ❤️

Thank you for reading! Next up – Slovenia🏞️⛰️❄️🍃

November 6, 2025November 6, 2025

Croatia – Pula, Rovinj and Zagreb

Next stop – Pula on the Adriatic Sea but on the tip of the Istrian Peninsula. This meant slightly different food and wine varieties. But the blue waters and temperate climate continued!

Pula by Sea

We had a bumpy ride getting to Pula. Our early morning ferry from Hvar to Split was cancelled. So we missed our direct flight to Pula. No worries, Croatian Air had another flight to Pula, except it connected through Zagreb and Zadar. Croatian Airlines was great about rebooking and even held our flight for us in Zagreb after a delay. So we eventually made it to Pula, but our bags did not! The baggage guy dutifully filled out a paper form and that did not instill confidence. Luckily, they delivered our bags the next afternoon.

For our first day in Pula, we planned a kayaking and cliff jumping trip with a local guide. Since our luggage had not arrived, we stopped by a nearby mall and bought new bathing suits and beach wear just in time. Croatia has truly fantastic malls, like I used to enjoy when I was a teenager. Lucky for us!

The kayaking tour was great. The water was beautiful and the cliffs and rocky coastline were perfect. Our guide took us to a 47 foot high cliff and told us to jump! As usual, Dusty was the braver one and jumped right off. I chickened out and was only able to jump off the “baby” cliff. Our guide also got great footage of us swimming clear water and showing off the underground caves. It was truly a beautiful place to kayak and swim.

We also visited a beach on the other side of Pula. Again, the water was perfectly clear and blue. We braved the cool water and went for a swim. It was so refreshing and well worth the chill. If that was our last swim of the year, it was a good one!

Pula – by Land

Next we explored Pula the city. Pula is an ancient settlement. The Romans conquered Pula in 177 BC and the city flourished under their rule. As a typical Roman town, it had city walls and gates, aqueducts and an amphitheater. Several of these are still standing today. Most spectacularly, Pula Arena, constructed between 27 BC and 68 AD, is mostly intact today. We first saw the arena at night, and that view was spectacular!

Like other Croatian towns we visited, Pula has been ruled by the Romans, Venetians, French, and the Austrians. After World War I and the collapse of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, Pula went to the Italians. The Italians forced the Croatians to speak Italian and assimilate into their culture. The locals spoke of the time under Italian Fascist rule as a dark time.

“To the Fighters of the National Liberation Struggle / To the Victims of Fascism”

After Mussolini fell, Pula was occupied by the Germans and subsequently bombed by the Allies at the end of World War II. Eventually, Pula joined Yugoslavia and remained a part of that country until its collapse in 1991. Interestingly, the locals in large part revere Tito – the famous communist leader of Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death in 1980. In school, we were generally taught that Tito was an authoritarian dictator and was one of the bad guys. It was interesting to hear a different perspective throughout Croatia and Slovenia from those who lived through it. Many of the people we met spoke wistfully of Yugoslavia and said they would go back without question.

Rovinj

We had some free time in Pula, and took a short bus to the nearby town of Rovinj. Rovinj looks like a little Venice and features Venetian architecture. It was a picturesque fishing port. We only spent a few hours there. But enjoyed wandering through the narrow cobblestone streets and the great views of the blue Mediterranean sea. We also enjoyed a glass of local rosé in a seaside cafe.

Zagreb

The capitol! And our last stop in Croatia. Zagreb is also an ancient city with a vibrant old town. What is now known as Zagreb initially consisted of two settlements – Gradec and Kaptol, founded in the 11th and 12th centuries. The two settlements fought for centuries until they were finally consolidated into Zagreb in 1850. Today you can visit both old town and see the former Medveščak creek (present-day Tkalčićeva Street) which divided the towns.

Kaptol and Gradec built walls and fortifications to protect from invasions from the Ottoman Empire. Some of the walls remain today. But only one gate remains – the Stone Gate – believed to have been built in the 13th century. It also serves as a shrine of Mother Mary. A painting inside the gate somehow survived the fire of 1731. When you visit today, there are people praying and lighting candles.

One other interesting ritual, Zagreb fires the Grič cannon canon every day at noon. The cannon has fired, without fail, every day at noon for 110 years. We witnessed it and got a wave from the cannon operator. A very fun tradition!

In 2020, Zagreb was hit by an earthquake with a magnitude of 5.3 with the epicenter just 7 km north of the city center. The modern buildings remained largely intact, but the old town was hit hard. One of the spires of the iconic Zagreb Cathedral broke off and landed on the Archbishop’s Palace. The second spire had to be removed because it was so badly damaged and leaning. A part of the roof of the Croatian parliament collapsed. Most of the museums in the city were damaged and some, including the Croatian History Museum, remained closed today. Understandably, there was a ton of construction going on which resulted in closures, noise, and dust.

So Many Museums

With many of the classic attractions closed, we turned to Zagreb’s incredible museums. There is a claim, potentially made up, that Zagreb has more museums per capita than any other city. There were the classic museums, including the City of Zagreb Museum. It was incredible, covering ancient culture all the way through post-World War II. It’s very well done and full of treasures. We also visited the small but impactful 1991/1995 Zagreb Rocket Attacks Memorial Center. During the civil war, the Yugoslavian army struck Zagreb with rockets twice. The museum somberly showed the damage caused by the war and the human toll.

But Zagreb also has more unique museums. The Museum of Broken Relationships – exhibits consist of artifacts of relationships with a back story submitted by people from all over the world. Of course we visited the Museum of Chocolate which takes you through the development of chocolate in South America through the centuries. Plus, the museum gave you samples! We stopped by the HaHa House, a comedy museum that you enter through a slide and into a ball pit. Haven’t done that in many years!

The Museum of Illusions was interactive and so much fun. It played with mirrors, perspective, and optical illusions. We have great photos from its exhibits!

But our absolute favorite was the video game museum. The exhibits started with the 70’s with the first video games and went to present day. And you could play the games! So we played Frogger and Pac Man on arcade machines. My favorite though was playing Dr. Mario on regular Nintendo and Zelda on Super Nintendo. We could have stayed in the “museum” for hours. I would highly recommend!

This completes our time in Croatia. It was a beautiful country. The people were lovely. The food was fresh. The wine was interesting and delicious. It was 18 days well spent. We would love to come back in the Spring/Summer when it’s warm enough to really enjoy the water.

But now it’s on to England. A visit to England does not fit in with the rest of our trip. But there was a very good reason for this out of the way stop!

Thank you for reading! Let us know if you have questions and feel free to comment here!

October 22, 2025October 22, 2025

Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast – Zadar, Split and Hvar

We are spending 18 days in Croatia. Way too much for one post, so this is Part I covering Zadar, Split and Hvar. Croatia is a beautiful country with fascinating history, great wine, and crystal blue water. We were here in the shoulder season, which was great for reduced crowds and the water was just warm enough for refreshing swims. It was a great time to visit!

Zadar

Zadar has thrived for over 3,000 years, and its Roman ruins still stand as proof of its long history. On one side of the Old Town, builders created a spacious waterfront with wide walkways and ladders leading into the sea for swimmers. Over the centuries, various empires ruled Zadar, and the architecture reflects their influence—Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, Austrian, and Italian. During World War II, Allied forces bombed the city and destroyed 80% of its buildings. After the war, Zadar joined communist Yugoslavia, which led to the construction of post-war buildings in the stark communist block style. As you walk through Zadar’s Old Town, you can spot elements from each era and culture woven into the city’s architecture. We found this mix of influences really interesting.

We ate delicious seafood in Zadar including black risotto – risotto made with cuttlefish ink to give it that black color (like squid ink). The seafood was so fresh and the produce all comes from local farms. You can taste the difference. It’s one of the things that makes visiting the Mediterranean so special.

Don’t sleep on Croatian wine! Tucked into the courtyard of an old church, The Wine Garden is a cozy spot where we enjoyed a fantastic wine tasting paired with local prosciutto and Pag cheese (a rich sheep’s milk cheese from the Island of Pag). Zadar also takes pride in its signature spirit: Maraschino, a cherry liqueur made from native maraska cherries—definitely worth a sip. Per usual, we visited a local brewery, Brlog, whose slogan is “Crafted by Stubbornness.” It stood out—not just for its great beer, but for being founded by two women. True to its rebellious spirit, my favorite brew was “Neposlušna,” AKA“Disobedient.”

Finally, we took a boat ride and visited a few of the smaller islands near Zadar. The water was just warm enough for a swim in the crystal clear blue Mediterranean. Our favorite!

Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitviĉka Jezera)

Next, we took a bus to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. After entering the park, we had an incredible view overlooking the huge waterfalls (slaps) and ethereal green water.

We walked along the boardwalk through the park and marveled at the waterfalls, lakes and fall foliage. It was a magical place. If you visit Croatia, it’s a must see. The pictures don’t do the park justice, so make sure to check out the video footage on our You Tube channel for an even better look.

Split

Our second home base, Split, the largest city in Dalmatia. Split’s Old Town centers around Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian built the palace in 305 AD as his retirement home after he resigned as Roman emperor. Through the centuries, the people continued to build onto and around the palace. Walking through you see the different architectural styles – Roman temples turned to Christian churches, middle age era homes, and modern storefronts. The palace is still part of the city and is filled with shops and restaurants among the ancient ruins.

Palace Cellar – Game of Thrones filmed dragon scenes here!

As if this weren’t enough, Split is on the coast and surrounded by clear blue water. We trekked up to the top of the old town and were rewarded with great views of the city and port. Split is also a bustling city blending the old and the new. Our Airbnb was in a modern apartment building surrounded by corporate buildings, businesses, and a huge shopping mall (I miss those!). Split was one of our favorite visits on the trip so far.

Krka National Park

Next, we took a bus from Split to visit Krka National Park. We rented e-bikes and rode along the scenic path to the park entrance. Near the entrance to the park, we found Kradinski Buk waterfall. Yes, more waterfalls and clear green water! Croatia is truly a beautiful country.

Hvar

Finally, Hvar, our last stop in Dalmatia. We took the fast ferry from Split to the island of Hvar. Hvar has it all – historic towns, picturesque villages, turquoise water, and sunsets to die for! It’s famous for its fancy resorts and we were glad to visit in the off season and miss the big summer crowds.

For sightseeing, we took a tuk tuk tour with Luka, a local guide. Luka told us the most interesting story how he was a blues player as a teenager and won a trip to play in Memphis. He loved Beale Street and dreams of going back. He was thrilled to hear we were from Mississippi. We saw rural parts of the island including tiny villages, and breathtaking hills and valleys overlooking the sea.

During the tour we stumbled upon a Croatian wedding celebration. We have seen this a few times – after the wedding they take to the streets, kind of like a second line but way more. This one involved flares, cars, flags and chaos! It seems like a really fun tradition.

We really enjoyed this part of our trip and would love to go back to Dalmatia in the summer when we can fully experience the beaches, islands, and water. Next up, Pula on the Istria Peninsula and Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.

Thank you for reading! Let us know if you like what you see or have questions!

October 8, 2025October 8, 2025

Amsterdam – Canals, Bikes and Rock n Roll

After our successful hike of the Inca Trail, we took a 12-hour flight direct from Lima, Peru to Amsterdam. To be honest, Amsterdam has not been high on our travel list. So why Amsterdam? There was a direct flight from Lima and we had a chance to see Bush in concert!

This was our third time to see Bush – previously at CPR Fest in Biloxi and Rocklahoma (that’s a story in itself). We keep seeing them again with the hopes that they will play Lauren’s favorite song. And third time was the charm. Gavin Rossdale sang “Swallowed” in Amsterdam and BONUS it was a special arrangement with just his vocals. One of us may have shed a tear. And it wasn’t Dusty. Bush was so so good. Totally worth the visit to Amsterdam itself.

But there was so much more to explore. We shook off our jet and concert lag and went for an e-bike tour through the countryside with Mike’s Bike Tours of Amsterdam. We rode a short bike/pedestrian ferry from Amsterdam’s CBD and within 15 minutes we were in the lush, green countryside, with excellent bike paths. It’s not just a cliche, the Amsterdammers are serious about biking – they get the priority over cars and outnumber them by a large factor. In addition to the countryside, we visited two small fishing villages just outside of the city – Monnickendam and Broek.

As a treat, we stopped to taste delicious Gouda cheese and learn more about traditional clog shoemakers. We had so much fun riding the e-bikes and taking in something totally different. Also, an e-bike is now on the list of things we need to buy when we get to New Zealand.

We stayed in the Jordaan neighborhood, which was a great location to explore the canals. We had the best time wandering around and taking it all in. But keep your head on a swivel – the bicycles do not yield to pedestrians!

Instead of a traditional city tour, we tried something a little bit different – the Humans of Amsterdam walking tour. We did the normal city and history stuff, but they incorporated visits with locals to give a little flavor. We met Ari who runs a thrift store and is a neighborhood character. He told us hilarious stories and loved mocking our American accent. Rumor is he provided a ton of the midcentury furniture used in the Mad Men set.

We also met Warren the Flower Bike Man. He is the one responsible for decorating all of the bikes around Amsterdam with flowers. He told us the story of why. Warren is originally from Florida but has family in Amsterdam. Years ago he and his wife decided to have an adventure and move to Amsterdam. Shortly after she arrived, she had a stroke and suffered from memory problems. He decorated the bikes to help guide her on her route. It was such a touching story and his love for his wife came through clearly. Before the tour we noticed the flower bikes all around the city and loved getting the scoop on how they got there.

Multiple people recommended that we visit a local brewery, Brouwerij’tij. There are a ton of breweries in Amsterdam, including Heineken. But this one was special because it employs people who have been diagnosed and treated for various mental illnesses. They told funny stories about the bartenders and servers being blunt with customers or taking things too literally. But people come there with the understanding that this place is different. The beer was really good and it was great to support a progressive business that helps support underserved members of the community.

As has become our habit, we booked a food tour. We had Dutch staples like bitterballen (deep fried bar food) and jenever – the grandaddy of gin as it was explained to us. We also went to a brown cafe or brown bar. These are old-school pubs that have a sense of “gezelligheid” or coziness. And maybe they’re called “brown bars” because they all seemed to have low lighting, dark wooden furnishings, and tobacco-stained walls. We ate a delicious sausage and mashed potato dish at a brown bar. If we lived in Amsterdam, I can see us hanging out in brown bars often, especially when it’s cold outside. Plus, we had apple pie, which is everywhere in Amsterdam. Maybe not so American after all? We never got the story of why apple pie is so big, but it was great and everywhere.

Check out our video documenting our Amsterdam visit. You can find it on our You Tube channel or here:

We had a great time exploring Amsterdam and are very happy we went. But we are very excited for our next destination – Croatia! Thanks for reading and following along!

October 2, 2025October 2, 2025

The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

The reason for our visit to Peru – the Inca Trail and one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu!

In a previous post, I mentioned Alpaca Expeditions – the only locally owned and operated tour company in the area. We selected their classic 4 day/3 night group hiking tour of the Inca Trail. Alpaca Expeditions made the trip exceptional – they provided porters to carry our gear, set up our tents, and most importantly prepared three amazing meals every day. If you are thinking about making the trip, absolutely book with Alpaca Expeditions.

Our guide picked us up in Cusco and we took a bus to the trail head near Ollantaytambo. Our day started with rain, but cleared up after a few hours. That was the only rain of the trip! Did I mention that this trek was challenging? No pain, no gain! We started at an elevation of 8,900 feet and went up from there.

The first day was exciting. I remember thinking, I can’t believe we’re here and doing this. As I walked on the weathered stone steps I imagined the Incan travelers on the same path hundreds of years ago. The mountains and valleys were breathtaking. The first day was well planned as our guide eased us into the daily grind. Day 1 ended at Ayapata at an elevation of about 10,900 feet. Easy peasy right?

The Notorious Day 2

Day 2 – the “challenging day.” We started the day at 5AM with breakfast and coca tea. Then we began our 4 hour hike up to the summit of Dead Woman’s Pass – it got that name for a reason! The hike was incredibly steep at times. And the elevation reached 13,800 feet. Catching your breath was difficult. So we took lots of breaks along the path. Slow and steady wins the race right? We may have doubted ourselves at times, but we made it!

From there it was downhill for a few hours and time for lunch. After lunch, another summit! This one was not as bad – 2 hours up to 13,060 feet to Runkuracay. From there we descended again to our campsite with a huge sense of accomplishment. We made it 16 kilometers, at altitude, and through the steep inclines and declines and elevation gain/loss. The altitude change on just this day was the same as climbing the empire state building twice, going all the way back down once, and then ascending it for a third time. We felt so proud after Day 2.

A Reward Day

Day 3! We woke up feeling like we could accomplish anything. Our legs may not have agreed if pressed, so luckily we had an easy day planned. We had 10 kilometer total for the day starting with what our guide called “rolling stones” followed by a descent down to 8,800 feet.

We made it to our campsite around lunch time which left us with the afternoon to rest, relax and explore the amazing archaeological site of Winay Huayana (Winaywayna). Aside from Machu Picchu, Winay Huayana is one of the largest and most well preserved Incan sites – and only accessible to hikers. What a great unexpected bonus!

Machu Picchu

Finally – Day 4 – Machu Picchu Day! Our day started very early with coca tea and a short hike via headlamp in the dark. We made it to the Sun Gate or Inti Punku a little after sun rise. Unfortunately, it was very foggy, so we had to wait a little longer for our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.

The fog persisted once we reached Machu Picchu but we had a great spot to relax and wait it out. The weather gave us an unexpected treat – we watched as the fog would lift, and then cover the site again, and then lift a little more, and cover again. It was almost mystical and definitely felt other-worldly. Dusty captured a great time lapse of the fog – it’s included in his video on our You Tube channel here

After soaking it all in, we went on a tour of Machu Picchu and viewed some of the incredibly well-preserved ruins. From there we took a bus down to Machu Picchu Pueblo and had the best cold beers of our lives! Next we took the train to Ollantaytambo and then made our way back to Cusco. We have never been happier to sit in comfy train seats.

But Can’t You Visit Machu Picchu in One Day?

I won’t sugar coat it – this hike was challenging and outside of my comfort level. At times we were tired, dirty, scared, and mentally exhausted. Our legs and feet hurt. We slept in a tent for 3 nights and did not shower for 4 days. And we had porters! I cannot imagine being able to complete the hike any other way.

There is another option to see Machu Picchu – it’s easy to take the train or bus and be dropped off right at the gate. There is even a fancy hotel at the base of the site. When we arrived after 4 days in the wilderness, I was really jealous of the freshly showered, well rested people that turned their nose up at us (we did smell). So why did we do all of that?

We are on an adventure. This trip is about having once in a lifetime experiences. Seeing Machu Picchu is a wonder for everyone. But getting to see it after hiking 45 kilometers (almost 28 miles) to get there – it feels different. I am so glad we pushed ourselves to do something hard. And we reaped the reward. We had an unforgettable experience and those memories will last forever. Even though it was hard, it was more than worth it. So, if you have the option – take the hike, do the harder thing. You will be glad you did!

Dusty put together a great video to document our Peru trip. Check it out here!

Thank you for reading. Up next – Amsterdam!