We are spending 18 days in Croatia. Way too much for one post, so this is Part I covering Zadar, Split and Hvar. Croatia is a beautiful country with fascinating history, great wine, and crystal blue water. We were here in the shoulder season, which was great for reduced crowds and the water was just warm enough for refreshing swims. It was a great time to visit!
Zadar
Zadar has thrived for over 3,000 years, and its Roman ruins still stand as proof of its long history. On one side of the Old Town, builders created a spacious waterfront with wide walkways and ladders leading into the sea for swimmers. Over the centuries, various empires ruled Zadar, and the architecture reflects their influence—Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, Austrian, and Italian. During World War II, Allied forces bombed the city and destroyed 80% of its buildings. After the war, Zadar joined communist Yugoslavia, which led to the construction of post-war buildings in the stark communist block style. As you walk through Zadar’s Old Town, you can spot elements from each era and culture woven into the city’s architecture. We found this mix of influences really interesting.
We ate delicious seafood in Zadar including black risotto – risotto made with cuttlefish ink to give it that black color (like squid ink). The seafood was so fresh and the produce all comes from local farms. You can taste the difference. It’s one of the things that makes visiting the Mediterranean so special.
Don’t sleep on Croatian wine! Tucked into the courtyard of an old church, The Wine Garden is a cozy spot where we enjoyed a fantastic wine tasting paired with local prosciutto and Pag cheese (a rich sheep’s milk cheese from the Island of Pag). Zadar also takes pride in its signature spirit: Maraschino, a cherry liqueur made from native maraska cherries—definitely worth a sip. Per usual, we visited a local brewery, Brlog, whose slogan is “Crafted by Stubbornness.” It stood out—not just for its great beer, but for being founded by two women. True to its rebellious spirit, my favorite brew was “Neposlušna,” AKA“Disobedient.”
Finally, we took a boat ride and visited a few of the smaller islands near Zadar. The water was just warm enough for a swim in the crystal clear blue Mediterranean. Our favorite!
Plitvice Lakes National Park (Plitviĉka Jezera)
Next, we took a bus to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. After entering the park, we had an incredible view overlooking the huge waterfalls (slaps) and ethereal green water.
We walked along the boardwalk through the park and marveled at the waterfalls, lakes and fall foliage. It was a magical place. If you visit Croatia, it’s a must see. The pictures don’t do the park justice, so make sure to check out the video footage on our You Tube channel for an even better look.
Split
Our second home base, Split, the largest city in Dalmatia. Split’s Old Town centers around Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian built the palace in 305 AD as his retirement home after he resigned as Roman emperor. Through the centuries, the people continued to build onto and around the palace. Walking through you see the different architectural styles – Roman temples turned to Christian churches, middle age era homes, and modern storefronts. The palace is still part of the city and is filled with shops and restaurants among the ancient ruins.
As if this weren’t enough, Split is on the coast and surrounded by clear blue water. We trekked up to the top of the old town and were rewarded with great views of the city and port. Split is also a bustling city blending the old and the new. Our Airbnb was in a modern apartment building surrounded by corporate buildings, businesses, and a huge shopping mall (I miss those!). Split was one of our favorite visits on the trip so far.
Krka National Park
Next, we took a bus from Split to visit Krka National Park. We rented e-bikes and rode along the scenic path to the park entrance. Near the entrance to the park, we found Kradinski Buk waterfall. Yes, more waterfalls and clear green water! Croatia is truly a beautiful country.
Hvar
Finally, Hvar, our last stop in Dalmatia. We took the fast ferry from Split to the island of Hvar. Hvar has it all – historic towns, picturesque villages, turquoise water, and sunsets to die for! It’s famous for its fancy resorts and we were glad to visit in the off season and miss the big summer crowds.
For sightseeing, we took a tuk tuk tour with Luka, a local guide. Luka told us the most interesting story how he was a blues player as a teenager and won a trip to play in Memphis. He loved Beale Street and dreams of going back. He was thrilled to hear we were from Mississippi. We saw rural parts of the island including tiny villages, and breathtaking hills and valleys overlooking the sea.
During the tour we stumbled upon a Croatian wedding celebration. We have seen this a few times – after the wedding they take to the streets, kind of like a second line but way more. This one involved flares, cars, flags and chaos! It seems like a really fun tradition.
We really enjoyed this part of our trip and would love to go back to Dalmatia in the summer when we can fully experience the beaches, islands, and water. Next up, Pula on the Istria Peninsula and Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.
Thank you for reading! Let us know if you like what you see or have questions!
