Our first stop in Peru was Cusco – a beautiful, UNESCO world heritage city high in the Peruvian Andes. With its cobblestone streets, rich history, and a mountain backdrop, Cusco is the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.
Cusco was the capital of the ancient Incan Empire, which covered much of the Andes between the 15th and 16th centuries. When the Spaniards conquered the city in the 16th century, they built on top of the Incan sites. Now, the city represents a mix of the Incan capital and a colonial city.
We didn’t waste any time—after dropping our bags, we headed straight to the heart of the city: Plaza de Armas. This lively square is a people-watcher’s paradise, surrounded by historic churches and anchored by a beautiful central fountain. We strolled, soaked in the sunshine, and ducked into shops selling the most dreamy alpaca sweaters and coats.
A Taste of Peru
For lunch, we dove into traditional Peruvian cuisine—and wow, did it deliver! We feasted on rocoto relleno soufflé (stuffed peppers), creamy ocopa (a rich, flavorful sauce over potatoes), cusco baked noodles, and pork chicharrón. Delicious!
Exploring Incan Culture
In the afternoon, we joined a Cusco City Tour with Alpaca Expeditions, and spoiler alert: we used them for all of our adventures in Peru. They’re the only locally owned and operated tour company in Cusco, and their guides were an amazing mix of knowledgeable, funny, and genuinely passionate about their culture. Could not recommend them more!
Our first stop – Sacsayhuamán ( pronounced like “sexy woman”). This massive Incan fortress is incredibly well-preserved and offers jaw-dropping views over Cusco if you’re willing to make the climb. We were blown away by the scale and precision of the stonework. From there, we continued to Q’enqo (Incan site), Q’oricancha (Temple of the Sun), and the Cathedral of Cusco.
Day Trip to the Sacred Valley
The next day was all about the Sacred Valley, and once again, Alpaca Expeditions was our guide.
Our first stop: an animal sanctuary with alpacas, llamas, vicunas, condors, guinea pigs and more!
Next: Pisac. Perched high above the modern town, this ancient site is a maze of terraces carved into the mountainside. The views are absolutely postcard-worthy, and imagining people farming these steep hills centuries ago was humbling.
Then it was off to Ollantaytambo—a mouthful to say, and a wonder to explore. This huge archaeological site served as Emperor Pachacuti’s royal estate in the 15th century. The climb to the top is a leg-burner, but the reward? Breathtaking views of the Andes, the valley below, and the charming town of Ollantaytambo itself.
Let’s Talk About Altitude 🏔️
Before our trip, we had one big concern: altitude sickness. Cusco sits at 3,300 meters (11,152 ft) above sea level, and both Pisac and Ollantaytambo are over 9,000 feet. For us sea-level dwellers, that’s a big jump.
Here’s what worked for us. We started Acetazolamide (Diamox) the day before we flew in and took it twice daily. Plus we hydrated constantly and skipped alcohol
Aside from a mild headache, we felt great. And this approach was essential as we prepped for the Inca Trail, which includes a summit at 4,215 meters (13,828 ft)—but more on that in the next post. 😉
Up next: the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu!